Battle of Campaldino

Victory of Guelphs over Ghibellines established Florentine dominance

The Battle of Campaldino resulted in the deaths
of an estimated 1,700 Ghibelline soldiers

The Battle of Campaldino, which is seen as an important turning point in medieval Italian history, took place on this day in 1289 on the Plain of Campaldino, part of the Casentino valley in eastern Tuscany.

Fought between the Guelphs of Florence, approximately 50km (30 miles) to the west, and the Ghibellines of Arezzo, about 35km (21 miles) to the south, it ended in a victory for the former, crushing the aspirations of the Ghibellines to become the dominant force in the region.

It was a milestone moment that solidified Florence as the major economic and military superpower in central Italy, paving the political and financial path that would ultimately create the wealth that underpinned the Italian Renaissance.

The battle for power between the Guelphs and the Ghibellines, which was immortalised by the poet Dante Alighieri - himself a combatant on the Guelph side at Campaldino - in his Divine Comedy, spanned around 300 years of Italian history, between the early 12th and the late 14th centuries.

The two factions were characterised by one side’s support for the papacy (the Guelphs) and the other’s allegiance to the Holy Roman Emperor (the Ghibellines) and while their bitter and prolonged struggle was for supremacy in northern Italy, the conflict had its roots in Germany.

It originated in the battle for imperial control between the House of Welf and the House of Hohenstaufen and spilled into Italy when the Hohenstaufen emperors - notably Frederick I (Barbarossa) and his grandson Frederick II - marched armies into northern Italy to re-assert their legal authority over cities such as Milan, Florence, and Bologna, which were still part of the Empire even though they had developed independent wealth.

The Guelphs and Ghibellines fought for supremacy in the
north of Italy for almost three centuries

This invasion caused division among the local populations and effectively forced people to take sides, with those who welcomed the order imposed by imperial rule siding with the Hohenstaufens, and those who resisted declaring their support for the House of Welf.

The names are said to derive from the battle cries of the rival houses - ‘Hie Welf!’ in the case of the House of Welf, and ‘Hie Waiblingen!’, which was a major Hohenstaufen castle. On Italian lips, these evolved into Guelph and Ghibelline.

The split along the lines of pro-Popes and pro-Empire took hold because the papacy, which ruled a large swath of central Italy known as the Papal States, viewed the Holy Roman Empire as an existential threat to church independence and gave their support to the House of Welf.

Once the Pope versus Emperor narrative had become established in Italy, rival Italian city-states began to use these German faction labels to further their own aims.

If a powerful city-state declared itself Ghibelline, for instance, its bitterest regional neighbour would immediately declare itself Guelph to secure papal backing. Thus Florence declared itself Guelph in opposition to Ghibelline Siena and Ghibelline Arezzo, while Guelph Milan squared up to Ghibelline Cremona.

The names stuck long after the original struggle between the Welfs and the Hohenstaufens in Germany had been resolved.

The poet Dante Alighieri fought
in the Battle of Campaldino

The Battle of Campaldino came about at a time when Tuscany was deeply divided with Guelph Florence and Ghibelline Arezzo both intent on becoming the dominant city-state in the region.

The area was suffering from grain shortages and when Florence began to expand its economic and territorial reach up the Arno River to feed its growing population, it directly threatened the security, trade routes and influence of Arezzo.

Tensions began to flare when Arezzo expelled all Guelph supporters from the city in 1287, sparking both sides to launch a series of raids on each other. The catalyst for wider conflict came as the Florentine Guelphs threatened the towns of Bibbiena and Civitella, prompting Arezzo to mobilise its forces.

Florence had assembled a Guelph coalition of soldiers from Pistoia, Lucca, Siena and Prato in addition to their own men, under the command of the professional condottiero, Amerigo di Narbona, and Guillaume de Durfort, his French military adviser.

The Aretine army was led by bishop Guglielmino degli Ubertini and Bonconte da Montefeltro, the son of Guido I da Montefeltro.

The Guelph army not only numbered more combatants - 12,000 against 10,800 - they were better trained. The battle, which took place on the part of the Campaldino plain between Pratovecchio and Poppi, raged for several hours before a major storm struck, by which point the Ghibellines had seen 1,700 men killed and another 2,000 captured, against just 300 losses for the Guelph side.

Soon afterwards, the Florentine Guelphs began fighting among themselves for power in the city, splitting into factions called the White Guelphs and the Black Guephs.

Dante, who had fought at Campaldino as a 24-year-old cavalry scout, was a White Guelph. In common with the rest of his faction, when the Black Guelphs eventually seized power, he was sent into permanent exile in 1302.

It was not long afterwards that he began writing his masterwork, the Divine Comedy, which portrays the poet’s vision of the afterlife divided into three sections: Inferno, Purgatory and Paradise.

The gruesome sights he had encountered on the battlefield directly inspired vivid characters and scenes in the Divine Comedy, including a meeting in Purgatory with Bonconte da Montefeltro, one of the Ghibelline leaders, who was slain at Campaldino and whose body was never found.

The Pieve di San Pietro a Romena is seen as
a masterpiece of Romanesque architecture

Travel tip:

Pratovecchio Stia is a small town in the upper Casentino valley in Tuscany, formed in 2014 by merging the historic villages of Pratovecchio and Stia. It sits in a landscape of forests, Romanesque churches and medieval castles, near the source of the Arno river, surrounded by the Casentino Forest National Park, one of Italy’s most atmospheric woodland landscapes. The town itself retains a medieval street plan with many artisan workshops, especially those making products using the densely woven Casentino wool cloth. Things to see include the Romena Castle, once one of the most powerful Guidi fortresses, mentioned by Dante in Inferno. The keep, three towers and stretches of defensive walls survive, along with the drawbridge and the Podestà’s house. Dante spent some time living in the castle during his exile from Florence. The Pieve di San Pietro a Romena, one of the most beautiful parish churches in Casentino, is a masterpiece of 12th‑century Romanesque architecture with sculpted capitals and a separate baptistery. Pratovecchio is the birthplace of Paolo Uccello, one of the great early Renaissance painters, celebrated for his pioneering use of perspective.

Stay in Pratovecchio with Expedia

Travel tip:

The Castello dei Conti Guidi at Poppi, which has
echoes of the Palazzo Vecchio in Florence

Poppi is one of the Casentino valley’s most atmospheric hill towns, crowned by the Castello dei Conti Guidi, a 13th‑century fortress attributed to Arnolfo di Cambio, the architect of Florence’s Palazzo Vecchio, of which it has echoes. Its soaring tower, frescoed chapel, and magnificent wooden library make it the cultural heart of the valley. Below the castle, Poppi’s medieval street plan unfolds in quiet stone lanes, Romanesque churches, and elegant loggias. The Badia di San Fedele, with its terracotta works by the Della Robbia school, anchors the historic centre, while panoramic terraces offer sweeping views across forests, vineyards, and the winding Arno. Poppi also serves as a gateway to the Casentino Forest National Park, one of Italy’s most pristine woodland reserves. Poppi’s cuisine is rustic and generous, including tortelli di patate, grilled meats, porcini mushrooms and the celebrated Casentino prosciutto. The town is renowned for its festivals, from medieval re-enactments to food fairs celebrating chestnuts and mountain produce. It is included in the Borghi più belli d'Italia - Italy’s most beautiful small towns. Poppi’s Palazzo Crudeli is the birthplace of Tommaso Crudeli, who was condemned by the Catholic Church as heretic. He belonged to the first Freemason Lodge of Italy established by the English colony in Florence, 1732.