17 December 2017

Rome falls to the Ostrogoths

Sacking of city in 546 left city a shadow of its former self


Francesco Salviati's portrait of the Ostrogoth king Totila, painted in about 1549
Francesco Salviati's portrait of the Ostrogoth
king Totila, painted in about 1549
The Ostrogoths, the Germanic tribe that took over large parts of the Italian peninsula with the collapse of the Western Roman Empire, achieved a symbolic victory on this day in 546 when an army under the leadership of King Totila captured and sacked Rome following a year-long siege of the Eternal City.

The event was part of the Gothic War between the Ostrogoths, who had originated on the Black Sea in the area now known as Crimea, and the Byzantine (Eastern) Empire, between 535 and 554.

Totila led a fightback by the Ostrogoths after the fall of the Gothic capital at Ravenna in 540 signalled the apparent reconquest of Italy by the Byzantines.

He had swept south with his forces and was based at Tivoli, east of Rome, as he plotted how he would recapture the region of Latium. In 545, he laid siege to the city.

Bessas, the commander of the imperial garrison charged with protecting the city, was stubborn but cruel to the Roman citizens.  Although he had a stock of grain, he would not let it be used to feed the population unless they paid for it, while at the same time refusing requests from citizens to leave the city.  He set grain prices impossibly high and many Romans starved.

Pope Vigilius, who had taken refuge in Syracuse in Sicily, sent a flotilla of grain ships in a bid to relieve the crisis but these were intercepted by Totila’s navy at the mouth of the Tiber and never reached the city.

A historical illustration said to show the army of Totila entering Rome
A historical illustration said to show the
army of Totila entering Rome
When Bessas relented and allowed citizens to leave, many were so weak with hunger they died en route to safety, either picked off by Ostrogoth soldiers or collapsing from malnutrition.

An attempt by an imperial army led by renowned general Belisarius only narrowly failed to defeat the Ostrogoth forces, its efforts hampered when Belisarius was taken ill and handed command to less-able subordinates.

Totila entered Rome on December 17, 546 after his men scaled the walls at night and opened the Asinarian Gate - the Porta Asinaria supposedly with the help of treacherous Isaurian troops from the imperial garrison who had arranged a secret pact with the Goths.

As the Goths were advancing, not knowing what resistance they would encounter, many of Bessas’s supposed defenders of the city were making their escape through another gate, leaving only about 500 soldiers still inside the walls.

In the event, resistance was minimal, with reportedly only 26 soldiers and 60 civilians killed. Rome was plundered, but Totila, having vowed the reduce the once-great city to a sheep pasture, relented and contented himself with tearing down part of the defensive walls, before moving on in pursuit of Byzantine forces in Apulia.

Yet even with most it buildings still standing, Rome was left a barren ruin. Where it boasted more than a million inhabitants during the glory days of the Empire, its population had dwindled to only a few hundred.

The Porta Asinaria was a small entrance through which farmers could enter Rome with their livestock
The Porta Asinaria was a small entrance through which
farmers could enter Rome with their livestock
Travel tip:

The Porta Asinaria (Asinarian Gate) can be found about 1.6km (1 mile) southeast of the Colosseum along the route of the Via Appia Nuova, next to the Porta San Giovanni. When Emperor Aurelian built the walls that surround Rome, there was only a posterula - a small opening for the farmers who lived outside the walls – at this location, which explains its name Asinaria (of the donkeys). It was only after the nearby Lateran Palace became the official residence of the popes that a proper gate was built, by Emperor Honorius.

The Fountain of Neptune at the Villa d'Este
The Fountain of Neptune at the Villa d'Este
Travel tip:

Tivoli, situated in the Monti Tiburtini hills about 30km (19 miles) east of Rome. Its fresher climate made it an attractive area for moneyed Romans. Nowadays it is famous for the breathtaking gardens of the Villa d’Este, complete with its 51 fountains, designed to entertain guests of Cardinal Ippolito II d’Este, who had the villa built in the 16th century.  Tivoli’s other major attraction is the enormous Villa Adriana (Hadrian’s Villa), which is not so much a villa as a small town, incorporating an array of temples, lakes, fountains, baths and other buildings so extensive that visitors need a whole day to explore.


16 December 2017

Ivana Spagna – singer-songwriter

Dance track made 30 years ago still holds record


Spagna performing her 1986 hit Easy Lady
Spagna performing her 1986 hit Easy Lady
The singer and songwriter Ivana Spagna, whose single Call Me achieved the highest placing by an Italian artist in UK chart history when it reached number two in 1987, was born on this day in 1954 in the town of Valeggio sul Mincio, in the Veneto.

Often performing as simply Spagna, she has sold more than 10 million copies of her singles and albums in a career spanning 46 years, having released her first single in 1971 at the age of 16.

She began to sing professionally in the early 1980s, when she provided the vocals for a number of disco tracks lip-synched by other artists, and when she relaunched her recording career in her own right she met with immediate success.

The single Easy Lady, recorded in 1986 and which she tends to regard as her debut single as a professional artist, sold more than two million copies, as did Call Me, which was released the following year.

Spagna defied the expectations of her record company, who had misgivings about promoting an Italian singing in English under the stage name “Spain” but were pleasantly surprised by her popularity.

The cover for Spagna's UK success Call Me
The cover for Spagna's UK success Call Me
Call Me topped the European singles chart and reached No 13 in the Billboard dance chart in the United States.

In 1987, her first album, featuring both successful singles under the title Dedicated To The Moon, achieved a further 500,000 sales. She followed up with a dance-rock album, You Are My Energy, and another hit in the UK chart, Every Girl and Boy.

Supported by Sony Music, Spagna moved to the US in 1990, living in Santa Monica, working on her new disco-pop album No Way Out, which was geared to the US market.

After returning to Europe in 1993, recording her last European hit, Lady Madonna, in 1995, Spagna decided it was time to start singing in her native Italian.

Her big ‘break’ in that regard was to be chosen to sing Elton John’s song Circle of Life, in Italian, for the soundtrack of the Italian version of the Disney movie The Lion King. Released as a single, it was a big hit in Italy.

Encouraged by the TV host Pippo Baudo, she took part in several Sanremo Festivals, finishing third in 1995 with Gente Come Noi (People Like Us), which was another successful single in Italy.

Ivana Spagna as she was in 1969
Ivana Spagna as she was in 1969
Her first album in Italian, Siamo in due, sold more than 350,000 copies, which made it the best-selling album by a female singer in Italy in 1995.

Throughout her early career in particular, Spagna was guided by her brother, Giorgio Theo Spagna, who gave her piano lessons and wrote songs for her.  He and Larry Pignagnoli, the promoter and producer, joined forces with Spagna in the Opera Madre group as they set out to conquer the Italo Disco scene.

Pignagnoli, who also writes songs, has worked with Spagna for most of her career.

Today, Spagna is still recording and more recently returned to creating dance tracks. She has also written a book, Sarà capitato anche a te (It will have happened to you too), describing the premonitory dreams she claims to have experienced repeatedly during her life.

Tortellini di Valeggio
Tortellini di Valeggio
Travel tip:

Spagna’s home town of Vallegio sul Mincio, which can be found about 25km (16 miles) southwest of Verona, is famous for tortellini pasta, which it claims was invented there (although Bologna also makes that claim). Vallegio’s story is that the shape of the pasta parcels was inspired by the legend of Marco, a captain in the Visconti army, who eloped with a girl he originally took to be a nymph from the Mincio river, leaving behind a knotted gold silk handkerchief as a symbol of their love. The pasta shape is supposed to represent the knotted handkerchief.

The remains of the fortified dam, the Ponte Visconteo
The remains of the fortified dam, the Ponte Visconteo
Travel tip:

Each year on June 18, Vallegio sul Mincio stages a festival that not only celebrates tortellini but also the 650m (710yds)-long Ponte Visconteo, a fortified dam built across the Mincio by Gian Galeazzo Visconti in 1393. Two huge tables of 600m (656yds) each are assembled on the 25m (27yds)-wide bridge with seats for 4,000 diners, who are served local specialities including the tortellini, which has a filling of beef, pork and chicken flavoured with celery, carrot and rosemary and is served cooked in a broth, with butter and sage and a sprinkling of cheese.

Also on this day:












15 December 2017

John Paul Getty III released

Heir to world’s biggest fortune held by kidnappers for 158 days


John Paul Getty III was left severely disabled after a stroke in 1981
John Paul Getty III was left severely disabled
after a stroke in 1981
A story that dominated the Italian press and newspapers around the world ended on this day in 1973 when police responding to a tip-off found a shivering, malnourished and deeply traumatised American teenager inside a disused motorway service area in a remote part of southern Italy.

John Paul Getty III, grandson of the richest man in the world, the oil tycoon John Paul Getty, had been held in captivity for more than five months by a kidnap gang who had demanded $17 million for his safe return.

The boy’s 80-year-old grandfather, whose personal fortune would equate today to almost $9 billion but who was notoriously mean, at first refused to pay a penny and stuck to that position until late November, when a letter containing a lock of hair and a human ear arrived at the offices of a daily newspaper in Rome.

After a further letter arrived containing a photograph of John Paul Getty III minus one ear, the octogenarian’s representatives made contact with the kidnappers and negotiated his release for $3 million.

Even then, John Paul Getty Senior refused to pay more than $2.2 million, which his lawyers allegedly told him was the maximum he could claim as a tax-deductible expense. The other $800,000 was paid by the boy’s father, John Paul Getty II, then usually known as John Paul Getty Junior but later as Sir Paul Getty.

The 17-year-old John Paul Getty III speaks to members of the press following his release
The 17-year-old John Paul Getty III speaks to members
of the press following his release
The story not only shocked Italy but exposed many rather unsavoury secrets about the world’s richest family.

The early life of John Paul Getty III had been fairly unremarkable, as far as is possible for one born into wealth and privilege.  He was one of four children to emerge from John Paul Getty Jnr’s marriage to Gail Harris, a water polo champion.

Although born in Minneapolis, he spent much of his childhood in Rome, where his father was head of Getty Oil Italiana. Life began to unravel for him when his parents divorced and his father took up with a beautiful Dutch actress and model, Talitha Pol, and rejected his former life.

The couple, famously photographed in Marrakesh by the society snapper Patrick Lichfield, led a dissolute lifestyle, flitting from Rome to London to Morocco until Pol died of a heroin overdose in 1971 and her husband, an Anglophile, returned to London.

John Paul Getty Snr at first refused to  consider meeting the ransom demand
John Paul Getty Snr at first refused to
consider meeting the ransom demand
His son was left alone in Rome and his own lifestyle began to follow a similarly Bohemian path. With no senior male figure to guide him, he fell into a life of excess, partying hard and taking drugs. He was arrested for throwing a Molotov cocktail at a left-wing demonstration and reportedly expelled from no fewer than seven schools. By 1971 he had given up on the prospect of an education and decided he would make a living as an artist. He began selling his paintings to local trattorie, and made extra cash by modelling nude for life classes.

It was when his was 16 and sharing an apartment with a couple of other artists that he was seized by a gang led by members of the notorious Calabrian mafia, the ‘Ndrangheta. They had clearly noted his nocturnal lifestyle and were able to snatch him fairly easily in the Piazza Farnese in central Rome at three o’clock in the morning on July 10, 1973.

He was blindfolded and chained up in a mountain hideout while the gang issued their ransom demands. At first, even his mother and father had doubts about the authenticity of the kidnap, remembering that their son had joked about faking a kidnap to extract money from his miserly grandfather.

Eventually it became clear it was not a hoax, however. When Gail Harris, the gang’s first point of contact after they had made her son write her a desperate letter, told them she had no money, they demanded that she “get it from London”, implying that her ex-husband or his father should be made to pay.

John Paul Getty III died at his father's estate, Wormsley Park, in Buckinghamshire, which has its own cricket field
John Paul Getty III died at his father's estate, Wormsley Park,
in Buckinghamshire, which has its own cricket field
Although John Paul Getty Jnr would in time inherit a substantial share of the family’s wealth, at that moment he was still relatively poor and it fell to John Paul Getty Snr to decide his grandson’s fate.  Having first reasoned that to settle one ransom demand would simply turn his 13 other grandchildren into kidnap targets, he was finally persuaded to pay up, albeit at a much-reduced figure.  He gave John Paul Getty Jnr a loan to pay his share, charging him interest at four per cent.

Once the money was paid the teenager, who had turned 17 during his captivity, was dumped by his abductors at a motorway service area near Lauria, in the province of Potenza, more than 400km (250 miles) south of Rome.  He was in a poor state of health but while he recovered physically, with his missing ear rebuilt, he was left with deep psychological scars that never healed.

He married a German photographer, Gisela Zacher, and had a son – now an actor, Balthazar Getty - when he was only 18. They moved to New York, where he became part of Andy Warhol’s hedonistic set in Greenwich Village.

In 1981, addicted to Valium and methadone and drinking heavily, he suffered liver failure and a stroke, which left him quadriplegic, almost blind and unable to speak.  His father, who had by then become a philanthropist while battling his own drug addiction, at first refused to pay his son’s medical bills but eventually relented.

John Paul Getty III managed to survive for another 30 years, living in what were effectively his own private hospitals in California, Ireland and at Wormsley in Buckinghamshire, where his father had a building in the grounds of his mansion converted so that his son could live there.  It was at Wormsley in 2011 that he died at the age of 54, having survived his father by eight years.

The Palazzo Farnese houses the French embassy in Rome
The Palazzo Farnese houses the French embassy in Rome
Travel tip:

The Piazza Farnese is the square in front of the Palazzo Farnese, one of the most important High Renaissance palaces in Rome. Owned by the Italian Republic, it was given to the French government in 1936 for a period of 99 years, and currently houses the French embassy.  Built in the 16th century for the Farnese family by Antonio da Sangallo the Younger, it was extensively redesigned by Michelangelo when Alessandro Farnese became Pope Pius III. In 1900, the composer Puccini chose the Palazzo Farnese as the setting for a major scene in his opera, Tosca.

The tumbledown ruins of the Saracen castle in Lauria
The tumbledown ruins of the Saracen castle in Lauria
Travel tip:

Lauria is a picturesque medieval walled town built on the side of a steep hill in Basilicata, about 110km (68 miles) southwest of the large city of Potenza. The main sights include the remains of a Saracen castle, once the home of a famous 13th century admiral, Roger of Lauria. The actor and film director, Rocco Papaleo, was born in Lauria in 1958.

Also on this day:










14 December 2017

Fabrizio Giovanardi – racing driver

Touring car specialist has won 10 titles


Fabrizio Giovanardi has been racing for more than 30 years
Fabrizio Giovanardi has been racing
for more than 30 years
One of the most successful touring car racers in history, the former Alfa Romeo and Vauxhaul driver Fabrizio Giovanardi, was born in Sassuolo, not far from Modena, on this day in 1966.

Giovanardi has won the European Championship twice, the European Cup twice, the British Championship twice, the Italian Championship three times and the Spanish touring car title once.

His best season in the World Championship came in 2005, when he finished third behind the British driver Andy Priaulx.

At the peak of his success, Giovanardi won a title each season for six consecutive years.

Like many drivers across the motor racing spectrum, Giovanardi had his first experience of competition in karting, winning Italian and World titles in 125cc karts in 1986, before graduating to Formula Three and Formula 3000.

He was hoping from there to step up to Formula One but although he won a number of races the opportunity to drive competitively for an F1 team did not come about.

It was during the 1991 season that he tried his luck in touring cars and met with immediate success, winning five class S2 races in a Peugeot 405, prompting him to focus on touring cars in the 1992 season. He remained at class S2 level and won his first title, the Italian Superturismo Championship, finishing first in 12 races for a commanding lead of 68 points over British driver Gary Ayles.

The Vauxhall Vectra in which Giovanardi won the 2007 British Touring Car Championship
The Vauxhall Vectra in which Giovanardi won the
2007 British Touring Car Championship
He moved into the main class of the championship with Peugeot in 1993, finishing in the top three overall twice before moving to Nordauto Engineering Alfa Romeo in 1995.

In his début season with Alfa, Giovanardi again finished in third. He continued in the Italian series in 1996 while simultaneously contesting the four-race Campeonato de España de Turismo, which would give him his second touring car title in 1997, when he was also runner-up in the Italian series.

It began a run of six titles in as many seasons for the Nordauto team, comprising consecutive Italian titles in 1998 and 1999, the European Super Touring Cup in 2000, the European Super Touring Championship in 2001 and the European title in 2002.

Giovanardi’s career stalled when Alfa Romeo decided to pull out of touring but he put himself back on track when he joined Vauxhall Racing to compete in the British Touring Car Championship.

Giovanardi finished third in the 2005 World Championship in this Honda Accord
Giovanardi finished third in the 2005 World Championship
in this Honda Accord
He finished fifth in the 2006 season in an Astra before finding that the new Vectra suited him very well, winning the 2007 title after a season-long battle with SEAT Sport’s Jason Plato.

Giovanardi successfully defended his title in 2008 and finished third in 2009, but suffered another blow when Vauxhall decided that would be their last season in touring car racing, citing the economic downturn for their withdrawal.

At 44 years old, Giovanardi had one more triumph, winning the European Touring Car Cup for Hartmann Honda Racing, but after moving from one team to another in search of the right car he effectively retired after the 2014 season.

His guest appearance at the Vallelunga round of the Italian championship in September 2017, when he drove a SEAT León for BF Motorsport and finished fourth, was his first competitive drive for three years.

Away from the track, Giovanardi is a keen pilot and has a passion for renovating houses.  He is married with one son, Luca.

The Palazzo Ducale in Sassuolo
The Palazzo Ducale in Sassuolo
Travel tip:

Sassuolo is a town in Emilia-Romagna, some 17km (11 miles) southwest of Modena.  With a population of just over 40,000 Sassuolo is a major centre for the production of ceramics, with more than 300 factories producing 80 per cent of all Italy’s ceramic tiles, making it one of the most important ceramic centres in the world.  At the centre of town, Piazza Garibaldi is a pleasant square and the 17th-century Palazzo Ducale, designed by Bartolomeo Avanzini, is a handsome building. Sassuolo’s football club made history in 2013 when they were promoted to Serie A for the first time in their 93-year existence.

The Vallelunga racing circuit from the air
The Vallelunga racing circuit from the air
Travel tip:

The Vallelunga motor racing circuit – the Autodromo Vallelunga Piero Taruffi – can be found 32km (20 miles) north of Rome, close to the town of Campagnano di Roma. Owned by the Automobile Club d’Italia (ACI), the 4.1km (2.5 miles) track has held the Rome Grand Prix since 1963.  The track is used by the FIA as a test circuit for Formula One teams and has also hosted the Six Hours of Vallelunga endurance event.  In autumn of each year, Vallelunga hosts a vast flea-market specialising mainly in vintage automotive spare parts.