Stefano Casiraghi - businessman and socialite

Died in powerboat tragedy after marrying princess

Stefano Casiraghi and Princess Caroline of Monaco
pictured on their wedding day in 1983

The businessman and socialite Stefano Casiraghi, who became a worldwide celebrity after what was described as a ‘fairytale marriage’ to Princess Caroline of Monaco, was born on this day in 1960 in Como in Lombardy.

After meeting on the yacht of a mutual friend during the summer of 1983, they were married in a civil ceremony at the Royal Palace in Monte Carlo just after Christmas in the same year.

At 26, Princess Caroline - daughter of Rainier III, Prince of Monaco, and the American actress Grace Kelly - was three years older than Stefano and had already been married, yet friends believed no couple could have been better matched.

Sadly, however, it was a fairytale that ended in tragedy as Casiraghi, who indulged his passion for speed by racing powerboats and became world offshore speedboat champion in 1989, was killed when his boat overturned as he tried to defend his title near Cap Ferrat the following year.

Casiraghi had been born into wealth. His father, Giancarlo Casiraghi, built a successful business empire in northern Italy involving real estate, retail exports, and industrial ventures. One of four siblings, Stefano grew up on the family's estate, Villa Cigogne, in Fino Mornasco, a small town just outside the lakeside city of Como.

He enrolled at Milan’s Bocconi University, which offers business-oriented courses, but left without obtaining a degree and began to work in his father’s business. 

At the same time, he began racing speedboats on Lake Como, becoming serious enough about the sport to compete in more than 80 offshore races during his life. He became highly skilled as a throttle man, the crew member who controls the engine power, speed, and boat balance while the driver steers. 

Casiraghi and Princess Caroline are said to have
shared a mutual attraction right from the start

His high profile in what was a glamorous, exclusive sport opened the door to a rich social life, in which he rubbed shoulders with celebrities and was never short of female company.

He and Princess Caroline met as guests on a superyacht belonging to their mutual friend, Francesco Caltagirone, a wealthy entrepreneur, cruising between Corsica and Sardinia in the summer of 1983. They were introduced by Robertino Rossellini, the son of film director Roberto Rossellini and the actress, Ingrid Bergman.

Caroline had already been married to and divorced from the French venture capitalist Philippe Junot, who was 17 years’ her senior, and had been dating Robertino Rossellini.  Casiraghi was already engaged to Pinuccia Macheda, the daughter of a prominent Milanese family.

Yet, reportedly, Caroline and Casiraghi experienced an instant mutual attraction. So strong, in fact, that when they arrived in Porto Rotondo, an exclusive seaside resort village in northeastern Sardinia, where Casiraghi was due to meet Macheda and his parents, they decided effectively to elope.

With Caroline simply abandoning Rossellini and Casiraghi leaving Macheda with his parents, they fled first to Isola di Cavallo, a small, private island off the southern tip of Corsica, before secretly flying to New York.

For a while, the couple lived an idyllic life with
their three children, Andrea, Charlotte and Pierre

After a period in which their whereabouts were unknown to all but their closest friends, Stefano brought Caroline back to introduce her to his parents. They married on December 29, 1983,  in a civil ceremony conducted in the Hall of Mirrors at the Royal Palace in Monaco.

They would have had a Catholic ceremony, but though Caroline had been divorced from Junot, and an annulment had not yet been obtained. In any event, Caroline was more than three months pregnant. 

Stefano Casiraghi has the natural charm to win over Monte Carlo and, coming just 15 months after the death of Caroline’s mother, Princess Grace, after a road accident, lifted the spirits of Prince Rainer and the whole principality.

The couple had three children: Andrea, Charlotte and Pierre. Regularly featuring in magazine shoots, they seemed to have an idyllic life.

Stefano developed his own business interests, while continuing to race his boats. It provided a thrill he seemed reluctant to give up but it became more than a pastime. He was proud to have set a speed record of 277 kph (172 mph) on Lake Como in 1984.

In 1989, he won the World Championships of offshore powerboat racing off Atlantic City, New Jersey.

Casiraghi flanked by Patrice Innocenti (left) and team
boss Romeo Ferraris after becoming world champions

The accident that killed him came in October the following year, as he and his co-pilot, Patrice Innocenti, sought to defend their title off the coast of Monaco near Cap Ferrat. As it happens, early in the race, they stopped to rescue the pilot of another competing boat, which had caught fire.

Looking to make up for lost time, Casiraghi’s 42-foot catamaran, Pinot di Pinot, had reached a speed of around 150kph (93mph) when it struck a wave and flipped over. Innocenti survived but Casiraghi did not. 

Caroline was in Paris when the accident happened and was informed by her father in a telephone call. After an accident off Guernsey only a few weeks earlier, Stefano had reportedly told her he intended to retire after defending his title, win or lose.

The funeral took place in Monaco's Cathedral of St. Nicholas, which had staged Princess Grace's funeral eight years earlier. Casiraghi is buried in the Chapelle de la Paix in Monaco.

The Parco delle Groane has a network of cycle
paths and walking trails for visitors

Travel tip:

Fino Mornasco, where Stefano Casiraghi grew up in his wealthy family’s estate, is a municipality of around 8,000 inhabitants, occupying a historically strategic position on the routes that connected Como - 10km (6 miles) to the north - with Milan and the Po Valley. Much of its territory falls within the Parco delle Groane, a 7,700‑hectare protected area of heathland, pine forests, and oak woods. The area, where archaeological finds have indicated a Roman-era settlement, became the property of various noble families during the Middle Ages. Later, it came under the control of the Visconti and Sforza dynasties of Milan, was subjected to Spanish and then Austrian rule before becoming formally part of the Kingdom of Italy after unification. In 1928, the villages of Fino and Mornasco were merged. The town also became part of the Como silk district, one of Italy’s most important textile regions, and retains this industrial heritage today, which is celebrated at the Museo della Seta (Silk Museum). Other points of interest include the Torre de’ Molini, a medieval tower offering panoramic views, and the Villa Raimondi, a 19th‑century neoclassical villa with an 18th‑century chapel where Giuseppe Garibaldi once celebrated a wedding. It sits in a landscaped park. The Parco delle Groane has more than 100 km of trails, including bike‑friendly and gravel routes.

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Lake Como is famous for its dramatic mountain
backdrops and deep, blue water

Travel tip:

The city of Como, which can be found at the foot of Lake Como, about 50km (30 miles) north of Milan by road. It has become a popular tourist destination because it is close to the lake and has many attractive churches, gardens, museums, theatres, parks and palaces to visit. The Villa Olmo, built in neoclassical style there in 1797 by an aristocratic family, hosted Napoleon, Ugo Foscolo, Prince Metternich, Archduke Franz Ferdinand I and Giuseppe Garibaldi, to name but a few of the eminent people who have stayed there. Another landmark is The Tempio Voltiano, which stands in a public garden near the side of the lake and houses a museum dedicated to the life and work of Alessandro Volta, the Como scientist who invented the first electric battery. The museum has a collection of scientific instruments used by the inventor, including his early voltaic piles, and some of his personal belongings and awards he received.  Lake Como is a scenic, two-forked glacial lake, famous for its dramatic Alpine backdrop and deep blue waters. Covering an area of 146 square kilometres (56 sq mi), it is the third-largest lake in Italy, after Garda and Maggiore. At over 400m (1,300 ft) deep, it is one of the deepest lakes in Europe. It's longest fork is 46km (29 miles) and the lake is 4.5km (2.8 miles) wide at its broadest point.

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More reading:

Beatrice Borromeo, the journalist who married into the Monegasque royal family

Roberto Rossellini, the film director who pioneered neorealism

Cristoforo Benigno Crespi, a textile entrepreneur whose company built a village to house employees

Also on this day:

1474: The birth of poet Ludovico Ariosto

1504: The unveiling of Michelangelo’s David

1973: The birth of historical novelist Matteo Strukel

2014: The death of soprano Magda Olivero

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Festa di San Vito

Saint watches over dancers, entertainers, and pet dogs 

A statue of San Vito, with dogs at
his feet, at Paternò in Sicily

Celebrations are held throughout Italy every year on this day to celebrate the feast day of San Vito (Saint Vitus) . Although it is not a national public holiday, June 15 is the day when many Italians remember San Vito, a  young Christian martyr from Sicily, who died during the persecutions carried out in the fourth century by successive Roman Emperors, including Diocletian.

Many Italian towns, particularly those in southern Italy, honour San Vito with processions through the streets, theatrical events and religious ceremonies.

Vito was thought to have been born towards the end of the third century in Mazzaro del Vallo in Sicily. Little is known about his life, but according to legend, he was the son of a senator. As he grew up, he resisted his father’s attempts, which included various forms of torture, to persuade him to renounce his faith. He fled with his tutor and his tutor’s wife, who was also Vito’s nanny, to Lucania, in what is now Basilicata.

When he was about 12 or 13, he was believed to have been taken to Rome to drive out a demon that had taken possession of the soul of one of the sons of the Emperor Diocletian. He successfully performed the exorcism, but was then tortured, along with his tutor and nanny, for staying faithful to Christianity.

According to the story, an angel brought the three of them back to Lucania by a miracle, but they all died from the wounds they had suffered. After Vito had been dead for three days, he appeared to a local woman, who later discovered the three dead bodies and buried them where they lay.

During the Middle Ages, San Vito was counted among the Fourteen Holy Helpers, a group of saints who are venerated by Catholics because they believe their intercession can help against various diseases. 

In the sixth century, Pope Gregory the Great referred to a monastery dedicated to San Vito in Sicily and later popes wrote about a shrine and a chapel dedicated to him. His relics were taken to Pavia, France, Germany, and Bohemia. The bones from his hand are kept as a sacred relic in St Vitus Cathedral in Prague. 

The Cathedral of Saint Vitus in Prague, where
bones from his hand are kept as a sacred relic

In Germanic and Latvian cultures, the feast of Saint Vitus was once celebrated with manic dancing before his statue. After this dancing became popular, the name Saint Vitus Dance was given to the neurological disorder, Sydenham’s Chorea, which is characterised by involuntary jerking movements.

This also led to San Vito being considered the patron saint of dancers and entertainers. He is also supposed to protect people against lightning strikes, animal attacks and oversleeping.

Vito is the patron saint of the towns of Ciminna and Vita in Sicily, Forio on the island of Ischia, the town of Sapri in Campania, the contrada of San Vito in Torella dei Lombardi in Avellino, and the town of Rapone, in Basilicata. 

On June 15, which Italian regard as the beginning of summer, towns with San Vito as their patron have his statue carried through the streets, accompanied by brass bands. 

Because legend claims that the Emperor Diocletian set rabid dogs on Vito, only for the dogs to be cured and calmed by him, some regions historically tie his feast day in with the blessing of animals.

San Vito Lo Capo in Sicily, which sits at the head
of a promentory 34km (20 miles) north of Trapani

Travel tip:

San Vito Lo Capo, a town in northwestern Sicily named after the Saint, hosts some of the most spectacular celebrations with locals performing a dramatic, torch-lit re-enactment of the Saint's arrival by sea, culminating in a midnight firework display. On the afternoon of June 15, locals participate in a traditional game on the water. Competitors try to walk across a 10-metre-long wooden beam that is suspended over the sea and heavily coated in slippery soap. The goal is to grab a flag at the far end. At dusk, a flotilla of local fishing boats sails out to sea and returns carrying actors portraying young Vito, and his tutor and nanny. The shore erupts with flaring rockets and the blare of boat sirens. A solemn night procession features a heavy statue of San Vito carried on the shoulders of the faithful. The statue is wrapped in a cloak covered in gold ex-votos, offerings that have been given by people in exchange for miracles. San Vito can be found about 34km north of the resort of Trapani.

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Positano, looking from the beach towards the
Church of Santa Maria Assunta

Travel tip:

Because San Vito is also the patron saint of dogs, on June 15 in Positano on the Amalfi coast,  the area near the Church of Santa Maria Assunta and the pier of the Spiaggia Grande is filled with local people bringing their pet dogs to receive a blessing from a priest. The town's main beach is taken over by market stalls selling traditional Italian sweets, street food, and toys. The celebration closes at midnight with a big fireworks display over the sea that illuminates the entire cliffside town. Positano is one of the most glamorous towns on the Amalfi coast and became fashionable with artists and writers after the Second World War. Positano’s villas, shops and hotels spill down the hillside to the beach, so that seen from further round the bay, the resort looks as though it is covered by a cascade of pink, cream and yellow houses.

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More reading:

Sant’Eustachio, the Christian convert martyred by Hadrian

Why Saint Bona of Pisa became the patron saint of flight attendants

Saint Camillus de Lellis, the reformed gambler who gave up his vice to care for the sick

Also on this day:

1479: The birth of Lisa del Giocondo, immortalised as Da Vinci’s Mona Lisa

1801: The birth of philosopher and writer Carlo Cattaneo

1897: The birth of politician and journalist Carlo Scorza

1927: The birth of comic book creator Hugo Pratt

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Battle of Campaldino

Victory of Guelphs over Ghibellines established Florentine dominance

The Battle of Campaldino resulted in the deaths
of an estimated 1,700 Ghibelline soldiers

The Battle of Campaldino, which is seen as an important turning point in medieval Italian history, took place on this day in 1289 on the Plain of Campaldino, part of the Casentino valley in eastern Tuscany.

Fought between the Guelphs of Florence, approximately 50km (30 miles) to the west, and the Ghibellines of Arezzo, about 35km (21 miles) to the south, it ended in a victory for the former, crushing the aspirations of the Ghibellines to become the dominant force in the region.

It was a milestone moment that solidified Florence as the major economic and military superpower in central Italy, paving the political and financial path that would ultimately create the wealth that underpinned the Italian Renaissance.

The battle for power between the Guelphs and the Ghibellines, which was immortalised by the poet Dante Alighieri - himself a combatant on the Guelph side at Campaldino - in his Divine Comedy, spanned around 300 years of Italian history, between the early 12th and the late 14th centuries.

The two factions were characterised by one side’s support for the papacy (the Guelphs) and the other’s allegiance to the Holy Roman Emperor (the Ghibellines) and while their bitter and prolonged struggle was for supremacy in northern Italy, the conflict had its roots in Germany.

It originated in the battle for imperial control between the House of Welf and the House of Hohenstaufen and spilled into Italy when the Hohenstaufen emperors - notably Frederick I (Barbarossa) and his grandson Frederick II - marched armies into northern Italy to re-assert their legal authority over cities such as Milan, Florence, and Bologna, which were still part of the Empire even though they had developed independent wealth.

The Guelphs and Ghibellines fought for supremacy in the
north of Italy for almost three centuries

This invasion caused division among the local populations and effectively forced people to take sides, with those who welcomed the order imposed by imperial rule siding with the Hohenstaufens, and those who resisted declaring their support for the House of Welf.

The names are said to derive from the battle cries of the rival houses - ‘Hie Welf!’ in the case of the House of Welf, and ‘Hie Waiblingen!’, which was  a major Hohenstaufen castle. On Italian lips, these evolved into Guelph and Ghibelline.

The split along the lines of pro-Popes and pro-Empire took hold because the papacy, which ruled a large swath of central Italy known as the Papal States, viewed the Holy Roman Empire as an existential threat to church independence and gave their support to the House of Welf.

Once the Pope versus Emperor narrative had become established in Italy, rival Italian city-states began to use these German faction labels to further their own aims.

If a powerful city-state declared itself Ghibelline, for instance, its bitterest regional neighbour would immediately declare itself Guelph to secure papal backing. Thus Florence declared itself Guelph in opposition to Ghibelline Siena and Ghibelline Arezzo, while Guelph Milan squared up to Ghibelline Cremona.

The names stuck long after the original struggle between the Welfs and the Hohenstaufens in Germany had been resolved.

The poet Dante Alighieri fought
in the Battle of Campaldino

The Battle of Campaldino came about at a time when Tuscany was deeply divided with Guelph Florence and Ghibelline Arezzo both intent on becoming the dominant city-state in the region.

The area was suffering from grain shortages and when Florence began to expand its economic and territorial reach up the Arno River to feed its growing population, it directly threatened the security, trade routes and influence of Arezzo. 

Tensions began to flare when Arezzo expelled all Guelph supporters from the city in 1287, sparking both sides to launch a series of raids on each other. The catalyst for wider conflict came as the Florentine Guelphs threatened the towns of Bibbiena and Civitella, prompting Arezzo to mobilise its forces.

Florence had assembled a Guelph coalition of soldiers from Pistoia, Lucca, Siena and Prato in addition to their own men, under the command of the professional condottiero, Amerigo di Narbona, and Guillaume de Durfort, his French military adviser. 

The Aretine army was led by bishop Guglielmino degli Ubertini and Bonconte da Montefeltro, the son of Guido I da Montefeltro.

The Guelph army not only numbered more combatants - 12,000 against 10,800 - they were better trained. The battle, which took place on the part of the Campaldino plain between Pratovecchio and Poppi, raged for several hours before a major storm struck, by which point the Ghibellines had seen 1,700 men killed and another 2,000 captured, against just 300 losses for the Guelph side. 

Soon afterwards, the Florentine Guelphs began fighting among themselves for power in the city, splitting into factions called the White Guelphs and the Black Guephs. 

Dante, who had fought at Campaldino as a 24-year-old cavalry scout, was a White Guelph. In common with the rest of his faction, when the Black Guelphs eventually seized power, he was sent into permanent exile in 1302.

It was not long afterwards that he began writing his masterwork, the Divine Comedy, which portrays the poet’s vision of the afterlife divided into three sections: Inferno, Purgatory and Paradise.

The gruesome sights he had encountered on the battlefield directly inspired vivid characters and scenes in the Divine Comedy, including a meeting in Purgatory with Bonconte da Montefeltro, one of the Ghibelline leaders, who was slain at Campaldino and whose body was never found. 

The Pieve di San Pietro a Romena is seen as
a masterpiece of Romanesque architecture

Travel tip:

Pratovecchio Stia is a small town in the upper Casentino valley in Tuscany, formed in 2014 by merging the historic villages of Pratovecchio and Stia. It sits in a landscape of forests, Romanesque churches and medieval castles, near the source of the Arno river, surrounded by the Casentino Forest National Park, one of Italy’s most atmospheric woodland landscapes. The town itself retains a medieval street plan with many artisan workshops, especially those making products using the densely woven Casentino wool cloth. Things to see include the Romena Castle, once one of the most powerful Guidi fortresses, mentioned by Dante in Inferno. The keep, three towers and stretches of defensive walls survive, along with the drawbridge and the Podestà’s house.  Dante spent some time living in the castle during his exile from Florence. The Pieve di San Pietro a Romena, one of the most beautiful parish churches in Casentino, is a masterpiece of 12th‑century Romanesque architecture with sculpted capitals and a separate baptistery. Pratovecchio is the birthplace of Paolo Uccello, one of the great early Renaissance painters, celebrated for his pioneering use of perspective. 

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Travel tip:

The Castello dei Conti Guidi at Poppi, which has
echoes of the Palazzo Vecchio in Florence

Poppi is one of the Casentino valley’s most atmospheric hill towns, crowned by the Castello dei Conti Guidi, a 13th‑century fortress attributed to Arnolfo di Cambio, the architect of Florence’s Palazzo Vecchio, of which it has echoes. Its soaring tower, frescoed chapel, and magnificent wooden library make it the cultural heart of the valley. Below the castle, Poppi’s medieval street plan unfolds in quiet stone lanes, Romanesque churches, and elegant loggias.  The Badia di San Fedele, with its terracotta works by the Della Robbia school, anchors the historic centre, while panoramic terraces offer sweeping views across forests, vineyards, and the winding Arno. Poppi also serves as a gateway to the Casentino Forest National Park, one of Italy’s most pristine woodland reserves.  Poppi’s cuisine is rustic and generous, including tortelli di patate, grilled meats, porcini mushrooms and the celebrated Casentino prosciutto. The town is renowned for its festivals, from medieval re-enactments to food fairs celebrating chestnuts and mountain produce. It is included in the Borghi più belli d'Italia - Italy’s most beautiful small towns. Poppi’s Palazzo Crudeli is the birthplace of Tommaso Crudeli, who was condemned by the Catholic Church as heretic. He belonged to the first Freemason Lodge of Italy established by the English colony in Florence, 1732.

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More reading:

How Castruccio Castracani masterminded a Ghibelline victory at the Battle of Montecatini

Dante Alighieri - the great Florentine writer whose body remains in exile

Beatrice Portinari – Dante’s inspiration

Also on this day:

1655: The birth of painter Antonio Cifrondi

1690: The birth of composer Giovanni Antonio Giay

1956: The death of writer and journalist Corrado Alvaro

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Lateran Treaty comes into effect

When the Vatican became an independent state

A map of the territory of the Vatican City, as 
defined by the Lateran Treaty of 1929

Benito Mussolini was helped to gain more power and any public opinion against him was effectively neutralised by the Lateran Treaty when it came into effect in Italy on this day in 1929.

The Catholic Church had effectively given legitimacy to fascism when the Kingdom of Italy and the Holy See had signed the treaty earlier in the year, recognising the Vatican as an independent state within Italy. The Church was perceived as openly inviting Catholics to support the Fascist regime.

When the Treaty was ratified by the Italian Parliament on June 7, 1929, it finally settled what had been known as ‘The Roman Question’, a dispute regarding the power of the popes as rulers of civil territory within a united Italy. 

Although Italy was then under a Fascist government, the Lateran Treaty was incorporated into the new, democratic Italian constitution in 1947 and all the succeeding democratic Italian governments have upheld the treaty since.

Mussolini had agreed to give the church financial support in return for public support from the Pope, Pius XI. He paid the Vatican 1.75 billion lira to compensate for the seizures of church property since 1860. 

Pius XI invested the money in the stock markets and real estate. To manage these investments, he appointed Bernardino Nogara, who, through shrewd investing in stocks, gold, and futures markets, significantly increased the Catholic Church's financial holdings. 

The income largely paid for the upkeep of the expensive-to-maintain stock of historic buildings in the Vatican, which until 1870 had been maintained through funds raised from the Papal States.

The signing of the Treaty in the Lateran Palace, by
Cardinal Pietro Gasparri (left) and Benito Mussolini

 As part of the treaty, the youth organisation Catholic Action granted the unique status of being the only non-Fascist organisation in Italy that was not banned. It was allowed to continue by Mussolini, but its role was restricted to religious and educational activity. Later, Mussolini tried to absorb Catholic Action into his Fascist youth groups.

From this day in 1929, the Vatican was officially an independent state occupying 40 hectares (100 acres) of land within Italy, with the Pope as an independent sovereign ruling within Vatican City. 

The papacy had recognised the state of Italy, with Rome as its capital, giving the city a special character as ‘the centre of the Catholic world and a place of pilgrimage.’

During the Risorgimento, the struggle to unite Italy in the 19th century, the Papal States had resisted being incorporated into the new nation. Italian troops had invaded the Romagna, then part of the Papal States, in 1860, and the rest of the territory, including Rome, was occupied by the army in 1870. 

After the ratification of the Lateran Treaty, the Papacy formally relinquished any claim over its former territories. 

Via della Conciliazione, the wide boulevard built
after the Lateran Treaty was ratified

The treaty is named after the Lateran Palace where the agreement was signed by King Victor Emanuel III and Pope Pius XI.

The Lateran Palace was the main papal residence in Rome between the fourth and 14th centuries. It is in Piazza San Giovanni in Laterano, next to the Basilica of San Giovanni in Laterano, the first Christian basilica in Rome and now the Cathedral Church of the city. Some distance away from the Vatican, the palace is now an extraterritorial property of the Holy See, with similar rights to a foreign embassy.

Via della Conciliazione, the wide avenue along which visitors approach Saint Peter’s Basilica from Castel Sant’Angelo, was built on the orders of Mussolini as a symbol of reconciliation between the Holy See and the Italian state after the Lateran Treaty was ratified. 

Roughly 500 metres long, the vast colonnaded street designed by Marcello Piacentino was intended to link the Vatican to the heart of Rome. At the time it had the opposite effect symbolically, as many buildings were demolished and residents had to be displaced.

The Papal Palace sits at the top of the main street in
pretty Castel Gandolfo, which overlooks Lake Albano

Travel tip:

Under the 1929 Lateran Treaty, the Papal Palace and surrounding villas of Castel Gandolfo became the extraterritorial property of the Holy See. The site resumed its historical role as the papal summer residence, underwent major expansions, and hosted thousands of refugees during World War II. Castel Gandolfo, where the Pope still has his summer residence, overlooks Lake Albano from its wonderful position in the hills south of Rome. The Pope spends every summer in the Apostolic Palace. Although his villa lies within the town’s boundaries, it is one of the properties of the Holy See. The palace is not under Italian jurisdiction and is policed by the Swiss Guard. The whole area is part of the regional park of Castelli Romani, which has many places of historic and artistic interest to visit.

Castel Sant'Angelo, on the banks of the Tiber, was
used by the popes as a fortress, castle and prison

Travel tip:

Castel Sant’Angelo, the towering cylindrical building in Parco Adriano, on the banks of the Tiber, was originally commissioned by the Roman emperor Hadrian as a mausoleum for himself and his family. There is a legend that the Archangel Michael appeared on top of the mausoleum, sheathing his sword as a sign of the end of the plague of 590, which is how the castle acquired its present name. It was later used by the popes as a fortress, castle and prison, and is now a museum. It was once the tallest building in Rome.  Hadrian also built the Pons Aelius – now Ponte Sant’Angelo – which provided a scenic approach to the mausoleum from the centre of Rome across the Tiber. Baroque statues of angels were later added, lining each side of the bridge. Pope Nicolas III commissioned a covered fortified corridor, the Passetto, to link the castle to the Vatican and Pope Clement VII was able to use it to escape from the Vatican during the siege of Rome by Charles V’s troops in 1527. The elevated passage, mounted on a wall, is approximately 800m (2,600 ft) long and still exists today, running alongside the Borgo Sant’Angelo and Via dei Corridori, the streets that are parallel with Via della Conciliazione.  

More reading:

The February signing of the Lateran Treaty 

Bernardino Nogara, the former engineer appointed to build papal wealth

The archbishop who tried to arrange a truce between Mussolini and the partisans

Also on this day:

1422: The birth of condottiero Federico da Montefeltro 

1687: The birth of castrato singer Gaetano Berenstadt

1936: The birth of TV presenter Pippo Baudo

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The Siege of Mantua

Eight-month blockade gave Napoleon control of northern Italy

French painter Hippolyte Lecomte's depiction of 
Austria's surrender to the French at the end of the siege

Troops led by one of Napoleon Bonaparte’s top generals laid siege to the city of Mantua on this day in 1796 in what would unfold as the defining hub of the French military leader’s victorious First Italian Campaign.

Following two months of lightning aggressive actions by Napoleon’s forces,  Austria’s allies in Piedmont were forced to surrender, the Austrians themselves were driven out of Milan and then fled into the mountains of Tyrol to the north.

But a garrison of 14,000 Austrian soldiers remained in Mantua, a fortress city largely surrounded by water that was key to control of northern Italy.

The Austrian retreat meant Mantua was isolated, at which point French divisions under General Jean-Mathieu-Philibert Sérurier moved to force Austrian outposts to withdraw into the city, which on June 4 was completely surrounded. 

The Mantua garrison had been Austria’s insurance against invasion by Napoleon from Italy, meaning any attempt to do so was a risk he could not take. But isolating it proved to be an act of strategic genius on his part. 

It led the Austrians to make repeated attempts to relieve their stranded garrison, each one leaving them weaker.

The first, led by forces under the command of Count Dagobert von Wurmser, was crushed by Napoleon’s army in defeats at the Battles of Lonato and Castiglione, south of Lake Garda.

The second, again led by Wurmser, suffered another defeat at the Battle of Bassano, after which the Austrian field marshal decided against retreating towards his own territory in favour of continuing towards Mantua, almost 120km (72 miles) south. 

Napoleon at the Battle of Arcole by
French artist Antoine-Jean Gros

Napoleon’s forces chased them all the way, eventually forcing them inside the city. It swelled the garrison to almost 30,000, but the siege remained in place and there was not enough food to go round. Meanwhile, malaria - spread by mosquitoes from the surrounding lake and swamps - was rife. Within six weeks, some 4,000 Austrians had died, either from untreated wounds, disease or malnutrition.

After that, it was the turn of another Austrian commander, Baron Jozsef Alvinczi, to attempt to break the siege and re-establish Austrian control. 

Against an army of 24,000, Napoleon’s outnumbered army was stretched. It suffered heavy losses but somehow managed to win a long, attritional fight at the Battle of Arcole, southeast of Verona, before his brilliant tactics routed Alvinczi’s forces at the Battle of Rivoli, 50km (30 miles) to the northwest.

With Alvinczi's army destroyed, no hope of rescue left, and the Mantua garrison devastated by disease, in February, 1797, Wurmser finally capitulated. The French captured over 13,000 prisoners and 500 artillery pieces.

With no major Austrian army left in Italy, Napoleon could now march towards Vienna. Austria, exhausted and isolated, sued for peace, leading to the Treaty of Campo Formio, which controversially saw Napoleon hand control of Venice to Austria, spelling the end of the Venetian Republic after 1,100 years.

Thus, Austrian rule in northern Italy was ended, at least temporarily. They would regain it less than 20 years later.

Mantua's Basilica of Sant'Andrea, 
which was built in the 15th century

Travel tip: 

Mantua is an atmospheric city in Lombardy, about 150km (90 miles) to the southeast of Milan. In the 6th century BC it was an Etruscan village, its name deriving from the Etruscan god Mantus. It was in turn ruled by Romans - the poet, Virgil, was born near the city in 70BC - Byzantines, Longobards and Franks, before passing through the hands of the Canossa, Bonacolsi and Gonzaga families. The Renaissance Palazzo Ducale was the seat of the Gonzaga family between 1328 and 1707. The Camera degli Sposi is decorated with frescoes by Andrea Mantegna, depicting the life of Ludovico III Gonzaga and his family, who ruled Mantua for 34 years in the 15th century. The nearby 15th century Basilica of Sant’Andrea was originally built to accommodate the large number of pilgrims who came to Mantua to see a precious relic, an ampoule containing what were believed to be drops of Christ’s blood mixed with earth. The basilica, in Piazza Mantegna, houses the tomb of Andrea Mantegna, who was buried in the first chapel on the left, which contains a picture of the Holy Family and John the Baptist that had been painted by him. Elsewhere, the Palazzo Te is a fine example of the Mannerist school of architecture, the masterpiece of the architect Giulio Romano. The name for the palace came about because the location chosen had been the site of the Gonzaga family stables at Isola del Te on the edge of the marshes just outside Mantua’s city walls.

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One of Bassano del Grappa's main squares is
the Piazza Libertà, pictured here at night 

Travel tip:

Bassano del Grappa is an historic town at the foot of Monte Grappa in the Vicenza province of the Veneto, famous for inventing grappa, a spirit made from the grape skins and stalks left over from wine production, which is popular with Italians as an after dinner drink to aid digestion. The town’s main attraction is the Ponte degli Alpini, also known as the Ponte Vecchio, a bridge across the Brenta river designed in 1569 by Andrea Palladio. It has been rebuilt several times after being damaged or destroyed by wars but always to the original design. The wooden bridge was the site of farewells for Alpini soldiers heading to the front in World War One, and Bassano still honours the thousands who never returned. Next to the bridge is the Grapperia Nardini, founded in 1779 and said to be Italy’s oldest distillery. Visitors can taste classic grappa, the local liqueur Tagliatella, and the signature cocktail Mezzo e Mezzo. The two main squares, which link to one another, are the Piazza Libertà and Piazza Garibaldi. Bassano developed as a medieval trading centre, later flourishing under Venetian rule, which shaped its architecture and craft traditions.

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More reading:

Napoleon’s victory at the Battle of Rivoli

Napoleon crowns himself King of Italy

The execution of Joachim Murat, key aide of Napoleon

Also on this day:

1463: The death of historian Flavio Biondo

1604: The birth of Claudia de’ Medici, Archduchess of Tyrol

1895: The birth of Fascist politician Dino Grandi

1966: The birth of soprano Cecilia Bartoli

1970: The birth of Olympic skiing champion Deborah Compagnoni

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Ancona comes under attack as Italy enters World War I

The day the capital of Le Marche was bombarded from the sea

A painting, by an unknown artist, depicting battleships
of the Austria-Hungary fleet bombarding Ancona

The port city of Ancona on the Adriatic Sea became an immediate target for naval ships deployed by Austria-Hungary on this day in 1915 after Italy entered World War I.

The Austrian fleet were quick to react after Italy declared that it was joining the war on the side of the Allies, having initially remained neutral. 

Destroyers immediately set sail from their base in Pola - modern-day Pula in Croatia - heading towards Ancona to attack both military and civilian targets under the cover of darkness.

The rest of the Austrian fleet set off to join in the bombardment the following day and the enemy ships attacked several other coastal cities in the province of Ancona, destroying a train and a railway station while they were firing on Senigallia. 

Two destroyers and a torpedo boat bombarded Ancona’s harbour for about an hour and 15 minutes, and an Italian destroyer, which was trying to defend the city, was badly damaged. 

There were two enemy aircraft in the sky above Ancona signalling the targets that had been chosen to be hit by the ships. The city’s military hospital, penal colony, orphanage, the Bank of Italy building, and some shipyard workshops in Ancona were all selected and many ended up badly damaged as a result.

The primary objective of Austria-Hungary was to hinder Italian mobilisation by attacking the key naval, industrial, and logistical infrastructure along the Adriatic coast.

Ancona's cathedral sits on top of a hill above the
harbour, making it an obvious target

The Austria-Hungary navy managed to inflict heavy damage on the whole area and 63 people, including some civilians, were killed in Ancona alone. 

The dome and a chapel inside Ancona’s cathedral - the Cattedrale di San Ciriaco - were seriously damaged by eight Austrian cannon shots.

This major onslaught on the Adriatic coast culminated in a bombing raid on Venice by Austrian seaplanes.

It was the largest and most ambitious naval operation carried out by the Austro-Hungarian navy during World War I. But eventually, a large Allied blockade was set up to prevent the enemy fleet from leaving the Adriatic.  

There had been widespread public support after King Victor Emmanuel III had formally declared war, siding with the Allies, at 15.00 on 23 May. Many Italians were hoping it would give them the chance to regain lost territory, such as areas of present-day Trentino alto Adige and the South Tyrol, as well as parts of Istria and the Dalmatian coast. 

However, Italy had been unprepared for immediate offensive operations, particularly along the Adriatic coast where fortifications were inadequate. 

The Allies were able to subsequently blockade the Strait of Otranto between Brindisi in Italy and Corfu in Greece to prevent the Austro-Hungarian navy from escaping into the Mediterranean and threatening any more of their operations.

Although the attackers did not suffer many casualties themselves, after this raid on Ancona, the major Austro-Hungarian battleships rarely left their bases.

The previous year, when General Luigi Cadorna had been preparing for war, his attention had been focused on Italy’s western border with France. For many people, trench warfare remains a lasting image of World War I, which makes them think of the conflict as principally a land war.

But the sea and air operations that were also carried out during World War I foreshadowed the important part the sea and air were to play during World War II, just 25 years later.

Pope Clement XIII's statue looks over
Ancona's pretty Piazza del Plebiscito

Travel tip:

Ancona is a city and a seaport in the Marche region of central Italy and is the capital of both the province and the region. The city is 280km (170 miles) northeast of Rome and is one of the main ports on the Adriatic Sea for passenger traffic. Ferries link Ancona with ports in Greece, Turkey and Croatia. The name Ancona derives from the shape of the harbour that the Greek founders of the city referred to as ‘ankon’, meaning elbow. Thanks to this unusual configuration, Ancona is the only city in Italy, and one of the few in the world, where it is possible to see the sun both rise and set over the sea. A famous site near the harbour is the towering Trajan’s Arch, built in AD115 overlooking the port in honour of the Roman Emperor, Trajan. Near to it is the smaller Clementine’s Arch, built by architect Luigi Vanvitelli in 1733 on the orders of Pope Clement XII, who wanted to be remembered for the work he had commissioned to modernise the port in order to revive the city’s maritime trade. A large statue of Clement XII also stands in front of the 13th century Church of San Domenico in Piazza del Plebiscito, which is a lively square, just off the seafront, with plenty of bars and restaurants.

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The cathedral's Gothic porch,
flanked by red marble lions

Travel tip:

High above Ancona on Monte Guasco stands the Cattedrale di San Ciriaco in Piazza del Duomo, which was damaged during the bombardment by Austria-Hungary. It is a short bus ride from the centre of Ancona. The cathedral was founded during the fourth century but was later rebuilt and consecrated in 1017. It has a Gothic porch flanked by red marble lions that was added in about 1200. The body of Ancona’s patron saint, San Ciriaco (Saint Cyriacus) is kept in the crypt, but it is no longer on public view.  There, you can also see the remains of the original Greek temple that stood on the site, and some early frescoes. The grounds surrounding Ancona’s Duomo have panoramic views of the harbour below and provide a good opportunity for taking photographs on a clear day. On the road just below the Duomo can be found a site with the remains of a Roman amphitheatre, which was  built towards the end of the first century BC, and nearby is a lift that will carry you down to the Lungomare Luigi Vanvitelli, a road that overlooks the port and leads into the centre of the city.

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More reading:

The World War I flying ace who became physician to Italy’s Chamber of Deputies

The army commander who was one of first to see the potential of air power

The general who masterminded Italy's decisive World War 1 victory

Also on this day:

1498: The execution of hellfire preacher Girolamo Savonarola

1670: The death of Ferdinando II de’ Medici, Grand Duke of Tuscany

1729: The birth of poet and satirist Giuseppe Parini

1933: The birth of football referee Sergio Gonella 

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Execution of four Carbonari in Ravenna

The day the city was draped in black

Tancredi Scarpelli's depiction of the 
scene following the executions

Four members of the secret society known as I Carbonari (the charcoal burners) were executed by hanging in a public square in Ravenna on this day in 1828.

The executions, thought to have taken place in one of the main squares in the centre of the city, possibly Piazza del Popolo, were carried out by the notorious papal executioner, Giovanni Battista Bugatti, who was nicknamed Mastro Titta, a slang version of maestro di giustizia, master of justice.

The four victims were found guilty of plotting to kidnap and assassinate Cardinal Agostino Rivarola, who had been sent to Ravenna to defend papal authority and clamp down on revolutionaries. 

Bugatti was the official executioner for the Papal States from 1796 to 1865. While working for six different popes, he executed 516 people by either beating, beheading or hanging them.

On this occasion in Ravenna, acting on behalf of the Papal Legate, he conducted the executions of Luigi Zanoli, Ortolani Angiolo, Gaetano Montanari, and Gaetano Rambelli.

The four unfortunate men were all believed to be members of the anticlerical Carbonari society.

The Vatican’s enforcer in the Romagna, Cardinal Rivarola, had issued mass condemnations against I Carbonari, and as a result, in 1826, shots had been fired at his carriage and a member of his entourage had died, although Rivarola had escaped unhurt.

Following an investigation into the incident ordered by Pope Leo XII, the death penalty had been dealt out to the four people accused of carrying out the shooting.

On the day of the execution, the square where it took place was completely occupied by the military to prevent anyone from getting near the gallows.

All shops, and the windows and doors of houses were closed, and many of them were draped in black. The streets were completely empty, reflecting the mood of the population, as the wagon containing the prisoners made its way through the deserted city surrounded by soldiers.

Agostino Rivarola, the cardinal who
survived an attempted assassination

The prisoners all refused the offer of confessing to two friars who were present at the gallows before they were put to death. As they mounted the steps to the gallows the four men shouted: ‘Viva Italia! Down with the papacy,’ before they were hanged.

The Carbonari was an informal network of secret revolutionary societies active in Italy from about 1800 to 1831. They were a focus for people who were unhappy with the repressive political situation in Italy. The secret societies played their part in the process leading to the Risorgimento and eventually to Italian unification.

They adopted the name 'Carbonari' because they used the charcoal-burning trade in the forested, mountainous regions of the Apennines, where the group originated, as cover for their clandestine meetings.

The English poet Lord Byron lived for two of the six years he spent in Italy in Ravenna, to be near Teresa Guiccioli, the young, beautiful wife of Count Alessandro Guiccioli, who he had been introduced to at a social gathering in Venice. During his time in Ravenna, he enjoyed the excitement of being part of I Carbonari, after being introduced to the society by Teresa’s father, Ruggiero Gamba, and her brother, Pietro Gamba.

Byron relished the secret meetings in pine forests outside Ravenna and even allowed members of the group to hide weapons and ammunition in his apartment. If Byron had been found to be housing the weapons, he would have been arrested and almost certainly imprisoned, or expelled from Austrian-controlled territory, but his fellow Carbonari believed he was less likely to be condemned to death because he was an English Lord.

The poet believed in the cause of fighting for a free Italy, but he left Ravenna to follow Teresa and her father and brother, after they had been exiled  to Florence, without ever having the chance to take part in a revolt against the Austrians. 

Giovanni Battista Bugatti had become the official executioner of the Papal States at the age of 17 and served the popes Pius VI, Pius VII, Leo XII, Pius VIII, Gregory XVI and Pius IX. Charles Dickens wrote about Bugatti in Pictures of Italy, after watching one of his executions in 1845. 

When Bugatti retired from his work, he was given a residence and a pension by the Pope and he wrote his memoirs. He died in 1869 in Senigallia in Le Marche, the town where he had been born. A book claiming to be his memoirs was published in 1891. The memoirs devoted an entire chapter to the execution of Leonida Montanari in Ravenna in 1825, who was the brother of Gaetano Montanari, one of the four men executed in Ravenna on 13 May 1828.

The Basilica di Sant Vitale is
famous for its stunning mosaics

Travel tip:

Ravenna in Emilia-Romagna, was the capital city of the western Roman empire in the fifth century. It is known for its well-preserved late Roman and Byzantine architecture and has eight UNESCO world heritage sites. The Basilica of San Vitale is one of the most important examples of early Christian Byzantine art and architecture in Europe. Ravenna also houses the tomb of the poet Dante Alighieri, who lived and died there after he was exiled from Florence. Byron was said to have found the tomb of the poet inspirational and would sit writing his poetry close to it while he was living in the city. Florence has repeatedly asked for Dante’s remains to be sent back to them, but Ravenna has always refused to relinquish them.  Ravenna’s cuisine reflects Romagna’s rustic traditions. Signature dishes include piadina, the region’s soft flatbread, cappelletti in broth or ragù, and passatelli, made from breadcrumbs, cheese, and nutmeg. Local grills feature castrato (mutton), which is highly prized in the region for its bright red colour, white fat, and intense flavour.  Mussels from Marina di Ravenna feature on menus as well. 

Piazza del Popolo was the site of
Ravenna's public executions

Travel tip:

Piazza del Popolo, where public executions took place, is at the heart of the city of Ravenna and for more than 700 years has been home to the palaces of power, such as the town hall and the prefecture building, which was once home to the Papal Legation. Now a lively square with open-air cafés and bars, it is the convergence point of many streets. It has a Venetian feel because Venice added twin columns similar to the pair in Piazzetta San Marco during the period they ruled over Ravenna. The Venetian authorities governed the city from the Palazzetta Veneziana between 1441 and 1509.  The origin of the square dates back to the late 13th century, when the Da Polenta family became masters of the city. The palatial residence of Bernardino da Polenta became the political hub of the city and remained so until it was demolished in 1681, when it was replaced by the current Town Hall.

More reading:

How Lord Byron became a Ravenna revolutionary

Gabriele Rossetti, the poet and academic who became a key Carbonari figure

The strange life of Mastro Titta, souvenir seller and executioner

Also on this day:

1726: The death of composer and singer Francesco Pistocchi

1804: The birth of Venetian patriot Daniele Manin

1909: The first Giro d’Italia

1935: The birth of entrepreneur Luciano Benetton

1938: The birth of politician Giuliano Amato

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