Showing posts with label Rome. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Rome. Show all posts

2 October 2026

The 1870 Rome plebiscite

When the Eternal City defied the Pope to be part of the new Italy

Romans celebrate the result of the vote outside the Palazzo Senatorio
Romans celebrate the result of the
vote outside the Palazzo Senatorio
Citizens of Rome voted overwhelmingly in favour of becoming part of the new Italy on this day in 1870, less than two weeks after the city had been captured by the Italian army and the unification process was finally complete.

For nine years after the Kingdom of Italy was officially declared in 1861, Rome remained under the control of Pope Pius IX as the sovereign territory of the Church, even though much of the area that had been the Papal States had been captured by the unification forces by 1860. 

The city’s independence had been protected by a French garrison stationed there permanently by Emperor Napoleon III, a key Church ally, but the outbreak of the Franco-Prussian War in 1870 meant that the French soldiers had to be withdrawn.

In their absence, after attempts to persuade Pope Pius IX to agree a peaceful surrender had failed, Italian troops led by General Raffaele Cadorna breached the Aurelian Walls near Porta Pia early on the morning of September 20, and flooded into the city, needing only a few hours to be in complete control. There were casualties on both sides, although thankfully few.

Pius IX, who had been head of the Catholic Church since 1846, believed that retaining the sovereign territorial power held by the church for more than 1,100 years was vital to its spiritual authority.  He was also fiercely opposed to two of the leading figures in the Risorgimento movement, Giuseppe Garibaldi and Giuseppe Mazzini, whom he perceived as anti-Catholic.

But the people of Rome and the surrounding Lazio region, which was the last territorial remnant of the Papal States, wanted to be part of a unified Italy and Giovanni Lanza, who had been prime minister since December 1869, believed that a referendum would settle any arguments and legitimise the annexation of the territories.


Thus a plebiscite was organised for Sunday, October 2, 1870. Multiple polling stations, typically in public buildings, were set up across the city and region, which were open from early morning until the evening.

Voting eligibility was quite restricted at the time. Only males over the age of 21 were allowed to take part and they were required to meet certain property or tax‑paying requirements, often needing to prove their literacy as well. 

Pope Pius IX opposed the absorption of Rome into the unified Kingdom of Italy
Pope Pius IX opposed the absorption of
Rome into the unified Kingdom of Italy 
The number of registered voters across Rome and Lazio was 167,548, of which there was a turnout of 80.75 per cent despite Pius IX asking Catholics to abstain.

When the results were announced the following day, there was an overwhelming majority in favour of becoming part of the unified kingdom.

In the city itself, the vote was ‘Yes: 40,785  No: 46’; in the Lazio region it was ‘Yes: 77,520  No: 857’.  Overall, 133,681 had voted in favour and only 1,507 against.

Rome was officially declared the capital of Italy in February, 1871. Before then, the status of capital city had been bestowed first on Turin (1861-65) and then Florence (1865-71).

Despite the numbers, Pope Pius IX remained steadfast in his opposition.

After the plebiscite had ratified annexation, the Italian government passed the Law of Guarantees offering personal inviolability for the pope, annual financial support, extra-territoriality for the Vatican and Lateran palaces, and the freedom to conduct diplomacy.

But Pius IX rejected the law entirely, arguing that accepting it would imply recognising Italy’s sovereignty over Rome. He continued to insist that the pope needed territorial sovereignty to remain politically independent and able to act freely in international affairs.

He declared himself a “prisoner in the Vatican”, refusing to leave the Apostolic Palace and refusing all contact with the Italian state.

His actions began a stand-off between the Papacy and the Italian state that persisted for almost 60 years in which a succession of popes refused to recognise Italy’s sovereignty and the Italian authorities in turn avoided interfering in Vatican affairs.

This awkward relationship came to be known as the ‘Roman Question’ and was not settled until the Lateran Treaty of 1929, agreed between Pope Pius XI and Benito Mussolini.

Under the terms of the treaty, the Vatican City was recognised as an independent, sovereign micro state, Catholicism was recognised as the sole official state religion of Italy, and a financial settlement was agreed that provided substantial financial compensation to the Holy See for the loss of its historical territories.

St Peter's Basilica is part of the Vatican City, the  smallest sovereign state in the world
St Peter's Basilica is part of the Vatican City, the 
smallest sovereign state in the world
Travel tip:

The Vatican City, which occupies an area of 44 hectares (110 acres) within the city of Rome and has approximately 1,000 citizens, is the smallest sovereign state in the world by both area and population. It came into existence in 1929 when an agreement was signed between the Kingdom of Italy and the Holy See to recognise the Vatican as an independent state. The treaty - known as the Lateran Treaty - settled what had been a long-running dispute regarding the power of the Popes as rulers of civil territory within a united Italy.  The treaty was named after the Lateran Palace where the agreement was signed and although the signatory for the Italian government was the Fascist dictator Benito Mussolini, succeeding democratic governments have all upheld the treaty.  The major tourist attractions of St Peter’s Square and St Peter’s Basilica, the Vatican Museums, the Sistine Chapel and the Pinocateca Vaticana art gallery are all within Vatican territory. The Via della Conciliazione, the broad thoroughfare that connects St Peter's Square to Castel Sant'Angelo on the western bank of the Tiber, was built by Mussolini to symbolise the new accord between the Vatican and the Italian state.

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The Monumento al Bersaglieri stands opposite Porta Pia
The Monumento al Bersaglieri
stands opposite Porta Pia
Travel tip:

Porta Pia is a gate in Rome’s ancient walls, named after Pope Pius lV, who commissioned Michelangelo to design it just before his death in Rome in 1564. You will find it at the end of Via XX Settembre, which goes off Piazza di San Bernardo, not far from the Quirinale Palace and the Trevi Fountain. It was a dozen metres to the west of the gate that Italian artillery created the breach in the wall through which soldiers from the Bersaglieri, an elite light-infantry corps of the Italian army, entered Rome on September 20, 1870, to complete the unification of Italy. A marble and bronze Monument to the Porta Pia Breach marks the spot. Opposite the gate, on the external side, at the centre of the Piazzale di Porta Pia, is the Monumento al Bersagliere, commissioned by Mussolini and erected in 1932 by Publio Morbiducci. The buildings between the two arches of the gate now contain the Historical Museum of the Bersaglieri.

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More reading:

The capture of Rome

How the Lateran Treaty confirmed the Vatican as an independent state

Alessandro la Marmora, founder of the Bersaglieri corps

Also on this day:

1538: The birth of Church reformer Saint Charles Borromeo

1821: The birth of soldier and politician Nino Bixio

1897: The birth of Mafia boss Joe Profaci

1950: The birth of anti-corruption magistrate Antonio Di Pietro


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26 September 2026

Romano Mussolini - jazz musician and painter

Dictator’s son forged successful career in music

At his peak, Romano Mussolini played around the world alongside some of jazz's greatest icons
At his peak, Romano Mussolini played around the
world alongside some of jazz's greatest icons
Romano Mussolini, the youngest son of Benito Mussolini, who grew up to enjoy success as a jazz musician and a painter, was born on this day in 1927 at the family home in Carpena, a hamlet outside Forlì in the Emilia-Romagna region.

Although he began his career with the anonymity of an assumed name, in time he became a central figure in Italy's post-war contemporary jazz scene under his true identity.

His peak achievement came in 1963, when his band, the Romano Mussolini All Stars, recorded the album Jazz allo Studio 7, winning the prestigious Italian Critics Award, raising his profile enough to play on tour alongside such jazz icons as Chet Baker, Duke Ellington, and Dizzy Gillespie.

Yet despite his musical fame, Romano considered painting to be his true creative passion and his expressive, figurative style achieved national and international recognition. 

Villa Carpena, the Mussolini family home and today open to the public as a museum, was a beautiful, Liberty-style country house in a pleasant rural setting. Between there and his father’s official residence in Rome, the neoclassical mansion, Villa Torlonia, Romano’s early years were somewhat idyllic. 

He studied music as a child, playing classical pieces on the piano and accompanying his father, who played the violin.  He first encountered jazz listening to records belonging to his older brother, Vittorio.  Largely self-taught as a musician, he began experimenting with playing jazz on the piano in around 1943. He also played accordion and alto saxophone.


Italy’s defeat in World War Two changed everything, of course. Having failed to escape to Switzerland, who rejected an application by his mother, Rachele, for asylum, Romano, his mother and sister, Anna-Maria, hid in a  house near Como, where he learned that his father, who had made a separate escape attempt in the company of his mistress Clara Petacci, had been executed by partisans.

Themselves captured by partisans, they were handed over to the British, who moved them to an internment camp near Terni in Umbria. From there they were transferred to Ischia, the island off the coast near Naples, where they remained in state-imposed exile until the Italian government announced an amnesty in 1947.

Romano Mussolini as a young child, pictured with his father on a beach holiday at Riccione
Romano Mussolini as a young child, pictured with
his father on a beach holiday at Riccione
Thanks to the family whom he lived with on Ischia, Romano had been able to keep up his piano playing and painting. After the amnesty, he stayed on the island, where he met Ugo Calise, a guitarist and composer, who invited him to play accordion in his group.

In the early 1950s, he returned to the mainland, moving into an apartment on the northern outskirts of Rome. He began to play jazz piano professionally, under the name of Romano Full or Raymond Full.

By 1955, after forming a partnership with a trumpeter, Nunzio Rotondo, he performed for the first time under his real name.

He modelled himself on his idol, the Canadian pianist Oscar Peterson, and his popularity grew, reaching a high point in 1963 when he was becoming a regular at the Santa Tecla club in Milan, which was something of a temple of jazz in the city.

His trio, the Romano Mussolini All Stars, recorded an album, Jazz allo Studio 7 - named after a famous Milan recording studio - that won that year's Italian critics award.  The award opened numerous doors, including regular invitations to tour abroad.

The irony is that, had his father’s regime survived, Romano would have probably had to choose a different career. Jazz, with its roots in black culture, was severely restricted by the Fascist government.  

Romano Mussolini explored various ways to earn extra money to support his music career, some more successful than others. He attempted to launch himself as a film producer but achieved poor results, making more from writing soundtracks for films. One of his more profitable ventures was a chicken and pig farm he acquired in Romagna.

Mussolini (left) pictured on an album sleeve with singer Lilian Terry and trumpeter Nunzio Rotondo
Mussolini (left) pictured on an album sleeve with
singer Lilian Terry and trumpeter Nunzio Rotondo
In 1962, he married Maria Scicolone, the younger sister of actress Sophia Loren. They had two daughters, Alessandra and Elisabetta.  Alessandra went on to lead a small political party on the Italian far-right and was often described as a neofascist. Romano Mussolini composed the party's official anthem.

As he became older, Romano devoted himself more and more to painting. His subjects ranged from landscapes to still life, abstract dreams, beautiful women, clowns, gypsy scenes and the carnivals of Venice. His style has been described as Post-War Italian Figurative Expressionism.

Although there are none on display in the famous galleries, many of his paintings survive in collections around the world, occasionally changing hands at auction.

His musical career continued, including an appearance at the Lake Maggiore Jazz Festival in 2002, although his later years were most notable for writing a book of memoirs under the title, Il Duce, mio padre. 

In the book, Romano condemned his father’s part in the deportation to Nazi death camps of some 7,000 Italian Jews, yet his appraisal of the dictator’s political career was largely sympathetic. 

He died in Rome from heart problems in February, 2006 and was buried in the family crypt in the cemetery of San Cassiano in Predappio, the town south of Forlì where both his parents were born.

The Villa Carpena, where Romano Mussolini grew up, is now open to the public
The Villa Carpena, where Romano Mussolini
grew up, is now open to the public
Travel tip:

The Villa Carpena museum, located about 10km (6 miles) southeast of  Forlì, is the historic former country residence of Benito Mussolini and his family. Known officially as the Casa dei ricordi di Mussolini (The House of Memories of Mussolini), the estate was the family home from 1924 onwards. His widow, Rachele, lived there long after his death. It eventually became neglected but in 2001 was bought by an Italian businessman  from the Mussolini estate and painstakingly restored, before being opened to the public as the first private museum dedicated to the dictator's personal life. Visitors today can explore the largely unchanged rooms, which are filled with original family belongings, furniture, and private photographs. Key highlights include Mussolini’s study, his uniform, personal letters, and the cradle of his children. The surrounding grounds feature a large garden, a vineyard, and the remains of a defensive bunker built during World War II. 

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The Maronti Beach in Ischia is one of the many beautiful beaches for which Ischia is noted
The Maronti Beach in Ischia is one of the many
beautiful beaches for which Ischia is noted
Travel tip:

Ischia is a beautiful volcanic island notable for its many beautiful beaches located in the Tyrrhenian Sea at the northern tip of the Gulf of Naples. It has an area of some 47 square  kilometres, rising to a height of 789 m (2,589 ft) at the peak of Monte Epomeo. The vineyards surrounding Monte Epomeo produce excellent wine that is served in the island’s restaurants. The hot mineral springs on the island have been used since Roman times as a cure for ailments and are still recommended for people suffering from rheumatism and arthritis today. An entire circuit of the island’s 34km (21 miles) of coastline on one of the local buses will take about two and a half hours. Ischia is also the name of the island’s main town, the other municipalities being Barano d'Ischia, Casamicciola Terme, Forio, Lacco Ameno and Serrara Fontana. Notable sights include the Aragonese Castle (Castello Aragonese), which was built on a rock near the island in 474 BC, by Hiero I of Syracuse. Nowadays, it is connected to the town of Ischia by a stone causeway.  The island, which has a population of around 62,000, is accessible by hydrofoil and car ferries from Naples and Sorrento. Typical journey times are 50-60 minutes by hydrofoil from either starting point, with the ferry from Naples taking about one hour and a half.

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More reading:

Rachele Mussolini, the dictator’s long-suffering wife

How Mussolini and his mistress were captured and killed

The controversial career of Alessandra Mussolini

Also on this day:

1927: The birth of World Cup-winning football coach Enzo Bearzot

1973: The death of Oscar-winning actress Anna Magnani

1997: Earthquake damages Basilica of Saint Francis in Assisi


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28 August 2026

Marie Mancini – Princess of Paliano

Dark Italian beauty won the heart of King Louis XIV

A portrait of Marie Mancini by the Flemish painter Jacob Ferdinand Voet
A portrait of Marie Mancini by the
Flemish painter Jacob Ferdinand Voet
Marie Mancini, an aristocratic Italian woman who once had a love affair with French King Louis XIV, was born on this day in 1639 in Rome.

Anna Maria ‘Marie’ Mancini was the third of five sisters, who were all taken to live in France. They were the nieces of Cardinal Jules Mazarin, who was Chief Minister to both Louis XIII and Louis XIV.

Marie grew up in Rome until she was 11 years old, when her father, Baron Lorenzo Mancini, died. Along with her sisters, Marie was taken to Paris by her widowed mother, Geronima, in the hope that Cardinal Mazarin would use his influence to help them all marry advantageously.

Two of Marie’s cousins, who were the daughters of Mazarin’s eldest sister, were also taken to France for the same purpose, and the seven girls were all known at the French court as ‘the Mazarinettes’.

Although Marie was christened Anna Maria, she became known in France as Marie and was said to have grown up as ‘dark, vivacious and beautiful’. 

She was nearly a year younger than Louis XIV, who had become King of France at the age of four, after the death of his father, Louis XIII.

Louis XIV - later known also as the Sun King - fell in love with Marie and wanted to marry her and she said she was willing to marry him, but his adviser, Mazarin, and his mother, Queen Anne of Austria, were both against the match.


Queen Anne wanted Louis to marry his cousin, Maria Theresa of Austria, the Infanta of Spain, who was the daughter of her brother, Philip IV of Spain. Cardinal Mazarin agreed with the Queen because he knew that her support for him and his foreign policy depended on making peace with Spain and on the Spanish marriage going ahead.

Louis XIV became aware that there were plans to exile Marie from the court and sent for Mazarin and asked him if he could marry his niece. Mazarin refused, saying he had been appointed to his position by the King’s parents to protect the welfare of the kingdom. It is said that Louis XIV fell on his knees before the Cardinal and pleaded with him, but without success.

Louis XIV pleaded to be allowed to marry
Marie Mancini (portrait by Charles Le Brun) 
The King also spoke to his mother about it for more than an hour and she managed to convince him that he must give up love for politics, but after the conversation he was observed with his eyes ‘red with tears’.

When Marie left the court, Louis XIV escorted her to her carriage and she is reputed to have said: “Sire, you weep, you love me, and yet you allow me to go!”

In 1660, Louis XIV married Maria Theresa of Spain and in 1661 Marie was sent to marry an Italian, the eighth Duke and Prince of Paliano, Lorenzo Onofrio Colonna.

Marie and Louis XIV had never been lovers, and Colonna was said to have been surprised to discover that she was still a virgin.

Marie bore him three sons, but after she found the third birth was particularly difficult, she refused to be intimate with him again. Their relationship deteriorated and she left Rome in 1672, accompanied by her younger sister, Hortense, because she said she was afraid that her husband might kill her.

She later spent a period living in a convent in Turin and some time travelling around Europe independently, which was unusual for a woman at the time.

Marie wrote her memoirs after a false account about her life had been circulated in France. Her sister, Hortense, also wrote her memoirs, after escaping from an abusive marriage with a French duke. She eventually travelled to London, where she became a mistress of the English King Charles II. The Mancini sisters were said to be among the first women in France to have published their own memoirs.

Marie Mancini died in Pisa in May 1715 at the age of 75 and she was buried in the Church of the Holy Sepulchre there. Her death occurred a little over three months before the death of Louis XIV at the Palace of Versailles in France on September 1 of the same year.

The character of Marie Mancini has since been used by writers, both in novels and a musical, and a number of biographies have been written about her and her sister, Hortense Mancini.

An 18th century etching of Palazzo Mancini by Giovanni Battista Piranese
An 18th century etching of Palazzo Mancini
by Giovanni Battista Piranese

Travel tip:

Palazzo Mancini, in Rome’s Via del Corso, where Marie would have lived as a child,  was created in 1634 by Lorenzo Mancini when the family’s old residence - also in Via del Corso - was enlarged for the celebrations of his wedding to Geronima Mazzarino, the sister of Cardinal Mazarin. Four adjoining houses were purchased and a new building was designed by the architect Carlo Rainaldi. After Lorenzo died and his widow and children went to live in France, the work was completed by Filippo Mancini. The palace was leased to the French Academy in Rome in 1725. One second floor room is still frescoed with scenes produced by the artists who were accommodated there during its time as an academy. After the French Revolution the building became the French Embassy to the Holy See. In 1818 the Palazzo was bought by Louis Bonaparte, who ceded it to Maria Theresa of Austria-Este, the widow of Victor Emanuel I of Sardinia, who gave it to her daughter, Maria Christina, who became Queen of Naples, and passed it on to the Bourbons of Naples. It was acquired by the Banco di Sicilia in 1919.

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The 12th century octagonal Chiesa del Santo Sepolcro in Pisa, where Marie Mancini is buried
The 12th century octagonal Chiesa del Santo
Sepolcro in Pisa, where Marie Mancini is buried
Travel tip:

Pisa, where Marie Mancini died, is a historic town in the Tuscany region that has become famous for its leaning tower, which dates back to 1173. The freestanding bell tower for the Cathedral now has a famous tilt that began during the building process, believed to have been caused by the laying of inadequate foundations on ground that was too soft on one side to support the weight of the structure. The tilt got worse over the years until work had to be carried out to correct it in the 20th century. In 1987, Pisa’s 60-metre-high tower was included in the Unesco World Heritage site list along with the neighbouring cathedral and baptistery  in the Piazza del Duomo. The Church of the Holy Sepulchre, Chiesa del Santo Sepolcro, where Marie Mancini was laid to rest in Pisa, is an octagonal church, which dates from early in the 12th century and is located in Piazza San Sepolcro, near the Lungarno Galilei in the San Martino district, along the southern bank of the River Arno.

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More reading:

How Cardinal Jules Mazarin became de facto ruler of France

Catherine de’ Medici, the mother of three French kings

Marie Josephine of Savoy, the Italian noblewoman who married Louis XVIII of France

Also on this day:

1665: The unexplained death of painter Elisabetta Sirani

1809: The birth of sculptor Giovanni Maria Benzoni

1909: The birth of Lamberto Maggiorani, star of classic movie Bicycle Thieves

1928: The birth of photographer Ugo Mulas

1938: The birth of talk show host Maurizio Costanzo


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28 June 2026

Domenico Fontana – architect

Swiss designer who built the Royal Palace in Naples

The Royal Palace in Piazza del Plebiscito was designed by Fontana in his role as Royal Engineer
The Royal Palace in Piazza del Plebiscito was
designed by Fontana in his role as Royal Engineer
Domenico Fontana, an architect working during the late Renaissance, died on this day in 1607 in Naples. Although he had a long career working for the papacy in Rome, Fontana was employed by the Spanish Viceroy of Naples toward the end of his life and he built the Royal Palace in Naples.

His work in Naples led to the rediscovery of Pompeii, when a crew working for him building canals became the first to confirm the location of the ancient city.

Fontana was born in Melide, a municipality in the district of Lugano in the canton of Ticino in Switzerland.

He went to Rome in 1563 to join his older brother and began a career as a plasterer, moving on to become a mason and master builder, showing particular expertise with measuring and good technical skills. After moving to Rome, just before Michelangelo's death, Fontana was able to study the works of both ancient and modern masters of design.


Fontana’s first architectural project was to design a villa for Cardinal Montalto, who later became Pope Sixtus V. He was then commissioned to design a Cappella del Presepio, a chapel of the crib, for the Church of Santa Maria Maggiore in Rome. This was a powerful domed building over a Greek cross.

He then constructed the Palazzo Montalto near Santa Maria Maggiore and later, when Cardinal Montalto became Pope, he was appointed as the official papal architect.

Domenico Fontana was born in the Swiss canton of Ticino
Domenico Fontana was born in
the Swiss canton of Ticino 
Fontana designed the Vatican Library, made alterations to Basilica San Giovanni in Laterano and rebuilt the Lateran Palace, on the site of the former medieval palace. 

He also worked with Giacomo della Porta on the completion of St Peter’s dome, with them both referring to Michelangelo’s model that the great architect had left behind him. 

His most famous undertaking was the removal of the 320-ton Egyptian obelisk, which had been brought to Rome in the first century. He moved it from its location near the Vatican and re-erected it in St Peter’s Square in front of the basilica in 1586. This was said to have taken the concerted effort of 800 men, 160 horses, and countless pulleys and metres of rope, and was a feat of engineering that astonished his contemporaries.

It also demonstrated his mastery of statics, the branch of classical mechanics that is concerned with the analysis of force and torque (the rotational equivalent of linear force), acting on a physical system that does not experience an acceleration, but rather is in equilibrium with its environment. . 

But, after later being accused of misappropriating public money, Fontana was dismissed from his post in 1592 by Pope Clement VIII, who was the fourth pope to come after the death of Pope Sixtus V in 1590. 

Fontana went to live in Naples where he became Royal Engineer at the court of the Spanish Viceroy and he was responsible for building the Royal Palace in Piazza del Plebiscito, which commenced in 1600.

Later, during work he was overseeing to construct a canal linking the River Sarno with some mills in Torre Annunziata, his workmen were the first to find some remains of Pompeii. At the time, the importance of this discovery was not fully understood and the ancient city of Pompeii in Campania was not rediscovered until 150 years later.

Domenico Fontana was the first Ticinese architect to gain major recognition in Roman architecture, establishing a lineage of Ticinese builders who dominated the Roman scene for nearly two centuries afterwards and contributed significantly to the construction of baroque Rome alongside architects such as Carlo Maderno and Francesco Borromini.

Fontana's legacy is marked by his architectural innovation and his pivotal role in shaping Renaissance and Baroque Rome and Naples. 

Michelangelo's Dome of St Peter's is one of the most familiar landmarks on the Rome skyline
Michelangelo's Dome of St Peter's is one of the
most familiar landmarks on the Rome skyline
Travel tip:

Michelangelo's dome, which Domenico Fontana helped to complete, is one of the dominant features of the Rome skyline.  Situated next to the Tiber, St Peter's is the largest Christian church in the world, covering 5.7 acres with a capacity to accommodate 60,000 people, with room for a further 400,000 in the square outside.  The dome itself rises to a height of 136.57 metres (448.1 feet) from the floor of the basilica to the top of the external cross. The Egyptian obelisk in the square, which Fontana erected, rises to 40m (132 ft), and was placed at or near the spot where St Peter was believed to have been crucified by the Romans in 64 AD. The construction of St Peter’s Basilica took 120 years, from the laying of the foundation stone in April 1506 under Pope Julius II to its formal dedication in November 1626 by Pope Urban VIII. The project spanned the reigns of 21 popes and  was led by eight different chief architects. In addition to Michelangelo, other key figures in shaping the design included Donato Bramante, who created the initial layout, Carlo Maderno, who completed the main façade, and Gian Lorenzo Bernini, who left a considerable imprint on both the vast interior and St Peter’s Square.

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The Throne Room inside the Royal Palace, in which 30 rooms are open to the public
The Throne Room inside the Royal Palace, in
which 30 rooms are open to the public
Travel tip:

The Royal Palace (Palazzo Reale) in Naples, which was designed by Domenico Fontana near the end of his life, was once one of the magnificent residences of the Kings of Naples. The palace is at the eastern end of Piazza del Plebiscito and dates back to 1600, when building commenced using Domenico Fontana’s design. It now houses a 30-room museum and has the largest library in southern Italy, which are both open to the public to look round.  The palace was originally commissioned to host King Philip III of Spain. Though the monarch never actually visited, the building became the seat of Spanish, Austrian, and eventually Bourbon power in the region. From 1734, King Charles of Bourbon and his successors expanded the palace, transforming its interior into a showcase of Baroque and Neoclassical opulence. During the Napoleonic era, rulers such as Joachim Murat further embellished the estate with refined Neoclassical decor. After Italian Unification in 1861, the House of Savoy took ownership, eventually opening the palace to the public in 1919.

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More reading: 

Giovanni Antonio Medrano, the Sicilian who designed Teatro di San Carlo

Luigi Vanvitelli, Neapolitan genius behind Royal Palace at Caserta

Why the Bourbons executed Joachim Murat, the flamboyant Neapolitan King of Naples

Also on this day:

1503: The birth of Giovanni della Casa, author of manual on etiquette

1909: The birth of politician and partisan Walter Audisio

1952: The birth of athlete Pietro Mennea

1971: The birth of footballer Lorenzo Amoruso 


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22 April 2026

Rita Levi-Montalcini - neurobiologist

Scientist overcame many obstacles to win Nobel Prize

Even in her late 90s, Levi-Montalcini was still making appearances as a guest speaker
Even in her late 90s, Levi-Montalcini was still
making appearances as a guest speaker
Rita Levi-Montalcini, a neurobiologist whose important discovery about nerve growth helped to advance medical knowledge, was born on this day in 1909 in Turin.

Levi-Montalcini was awarded the 1989 Nobel Prize in Physiology or Medicine.  She lived until the age of 103, having become the first Nobel laureate to reach the age of 100.

Despite Mussolini’s racial laws preventing Levi-Montalcini from having an academic or professional career in Italy, she carried out research in her bedroom at home that led to her discovering nerve growth factor. 

This discovery paved the way for future research in neurobiology, which demonstrated that the nervous, immune, and endocrine systems are linked, and had profound implications for understanding neurodegenerative diseases.

Levi-Montalcini was born to Italian Jewish parents and had a twin sister, Paola. They were the youngest of four children.

She once considered becoming a writer. After seeing a close family friend die of stomach cancer, however, she decided to go to the medical school of Turin University instead, where she first became interested in the nervous system.


After graduating in medicine and surgery with the highest distinction in 1936, Levi-Montalcini stayed on at the university as an assistant, until her career was ended by Mussolini’s 1938 Manifesto of Race, which banned Jews from holding professional positions.

Determined to continue her work, even after Italy entered World War Two, she set up a laboratory in her bedroom, where she studied the growth of nerve fibres in chicken embryos.  

When Germany invaded Italy in 1943, her family fled to Florence, where they survived the Holocaust by using false identities and were protected by non-Jewish friends.

Levi-Montalcini pictured in 1930, when she enrolled at the University of Turin
Levi-Montalcini pictured in 1930, when
she enrolled at the University of Turin
After the liberation of Florence, Levi-Montalcini volunteered for the Allied Health Service and helped to provide critical care for people injured during the war.

When the war was over, Levi-Montalcini published the results of her home laboratory experiments. As a result, she was offered a research position at Washington School of Medicine, a post she was to hold for the next 30 years, and it was there she made her vital discovery about nerve growth factor. 

Eventually she established a second laboratory in Rome, and was then able to divide her time between working in Italy and the United States.

In 1986  Levi-Montalcini earned her Nobel prize, which she shared with the American biochemist Stanley Cohen, for their research into nerve growth factor.

After she became director of neurobiology of the National Research Council of Italy, she was one of the first scientists to point out the importance of the mast cell in human pathology.

The president of Italy, Carlo Azeglio Ciampi, made her a senator for life in 2001. In 2006, at the age of 97, she attended the opening ceremony of the Senate, at which the upper house of the Italian parliament was to elect its president. She declared her support for the centre-left candidate, Franco Marini, who defeated former prime minister Giulio Andreotti in the vote.

That year she held the deciding vote in the Italian parliament in a budget dispute and threatened to withdraw her support for the government unless they reversed their decision to cut science funding. The funding was put back in and the budget passed, despite the opposition’s attempts to silence her by mocking her age.

In 2009, a party was given at Rome’s Palazzo Senatorio - also known as City Hall - in Piazza del Campidoglio to honour her achievement of becoming the first Nobel laureate to reach the age of 100.

During her life, Rita Levi-Montalcini had faced many obstacles but had been motivated to succeed anyway. She once said: ‘If I had not been discriminated against, or had not suffered persecution, I would never have received the Nobel Prize.’

Her twin sister, Paola, who had been a popular artist in Italy, died at the age of 91. Rita Levi-Montalcini died at her home in Rome at the age of 103 and she was later buried in the grave with her twin sister at the Monumental Cemetery in Turin.

One of the entrances to Turin's huge Monumental Cemetery, reputed to contain 400,000 graves
One of the entrances to Turin's huge Monumental
Cemetery, reputed to contain 400,000 graves
Travel tip:

The Monumental Cemetery of Turin - previously known as the General Cemetery  - is the largest cemetery in the city and one of the biggest in Italy, said to be the last resting place of more than 400,000 people in a 60-hectare site.  Located in the northeast of Turin’s historic centre, it contains numerous historic tombs and 12km (7 miles) of porticoes, adorned with sculptures of artistic value. Opened in 1829 to replace the cemeteries of San Lazzaro and San Pietro in Vincoli, it was built thanks to the philanthropist Marquis Carlo Tancredi Falletti di Barolo. The cemetery has become something of a tourist attraction because of the number of famous Italians whose graves lie within it. These include the Holocaust survivor Primo Levi and several other writers, including  Edmondo De Amicis, Mario Soldati and Carolina Invernizio. Several scientists are buried there in addition to Levi-Montalcini, including Cesare Lombroso and Galileo Ferraris. Other notable graves include those of 19th century politician Massimo d’Azeglio, the operatic tenor Francesco Tamagno, actor and singer Fred Buscaglione, food canning pioneer Francesco Cirio, racing driver Nino Farina, the car designer Battista Pininfarina, football coach Nils Liedholm and some members of the Grand Torino football team killed in the Superga disaster of 1949. 

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Piazza del Campidoglio, designed by Michelangelo, was commissioned by Pope Paul III
Piazza del Campidoglio, designed by Michelangelo,
was commissioned by Pope Paul III
Travel tip:

The building colloquially known as Rome’s City Hall, the Palazzo Senatorio, is one of three main buildings grouped around Piazza del Campidoglio, a beautiful public square built in the 16th century to a design by Michelangelo. The others are the Palazzo dei Conservatori and the Palazzo Nuovo, which form the Capitoline Museums.  Situated at the top of the Capitoline Hill, overlooking the Roman Forum, it was commissioned by Pope Paul III, who wanted a symbol of his 'new' Rome to impress the Holy Roman Emperor, Charles V, who was expected to visit Rome in 1538. Michelangelo’s plans involved a new facade for the Palazzo Senatorio, including a double staircase, and a new facade for the Palazzo dei Conservatori. The Palazzo Nuovo, as the name suggests, was a brand new building, designed to mirror the Palazzo dei Conservatori. The striking centrepiece of the square, for which Michelangelo produced an oval design, included a complex spiralling pavement with a twelve-pointed star at its centre. Palazzo Senatorio today houses the Rome Mayor’s office and has been the seat of the City Council since 1870. It was the home of the Roman Senate - not to be confused with the Senate of Ancient Rome - from the 12th century.

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More reading:

Novelist Grazia Deledda, Italy’s first female Nobel laureate

The Garibaldi supporter who won a Nobel Peace prize

How a civil engineer won a Nobel prize writing poetry in spare time

Also on this day:

1891: The birth of auto engine designer Vittorio Jano

1935: The birth of opera singer Fiorenza Cossotto

2006: The death of actress Alida Valli


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7 April 2026

Pope Clement XII

Financially shrewd pontiff used papal cash for building projects

Pope Clement XII commission many architectural works in Rome and Ancona
Pope Clement XII commission many
architectural works in Rome and Ancona
Lorenzo Corsini, who during his time as Pope Clement XII substantially built up the wealth of the Vatican, was born on this day in 1740 in Florence.

While he was pontiff, Clement XII began the construction of the Trevi Fountain, established the Capitoline Museums in Rome, and carried out extensive public building works in the Papal States.

Corsini was the son of Bartolomeo Corsini, Marquis of Casigliano, and Elisabetta Strozzi, who was from an old Florentine noble family. He was a nephew of Cardinal Neri Corsini and a distant relative of Saint Andrew Corsini.

After studying at the Jesuit College in Rome, he went to the University of Pisa where he achieved a doctorate in both civil law and canon law.

He practised law under his uncle, Cardinal Corsini, but after the death of both his uncle and father, he renounced his right to become head of his family.

Instead, he purchased from Pope Innocent XI, for 30,000 scudi, a position as a prelate. He subsequently devoted his time and his money to the enlargement of the library bequeathed to him by his uncle.  His home in Piazza Navona went on to become the centre of Rome’s scholarly and artistic life.

In 1690, Corsini was made titular Archbishop of Nicomedia and he was chosen as nuncio to Vienna, receiving a dispensation from Pope Alexander VIII because he had not yet been ordained as a priest. He did not proceed to the imperial court, because Leopold I, the Holy Roman Emperor, declared that he had the right to select the nuncio from a list of three names furnished by the pope.


Corsini was appointed as governor general of the Castel Sant’Angelo in 1696. Under Pope Clement XI, his talents were used as a courtier and in 1706 he was named as Cardinal Priest of Santa Susanna, and he was also retained as papal treasurer.

Pope Benedict XIII made him Prefect of the Apostolic Signatura and he was also appointed as the Cardinal-Priest of San Pietro in Vincoli and Cardinal Bishop of Frascati.

Luigi Vanvitelli was Pope Clement XII's architect of choice
Luigi Vanvitelli was Pope
Clement XII's architect of choice
Under Benedict XIII the finances of the Papal States had been drained by the cardinal who had been looking after them. After Pope Benedict’s death, the College of Cardinals selected Corsini as his successor, who was by then aged 78.

After he became Pope in 1730, Corsini took the papal name Clement in honour of Pope Clement XI, who had made him a cardinal.

He restored the Papal finances, demanding restitution from the people who had abused the trust of his predecessor. Soon money was pouring into his treasury, enabling him to undertake extensive building programmes in Rome and the Papal States.

Clement XII restored the Arch of Constantine, paved the streets of Rome, and widened Via del Corso.

As part of his aim to improve the wellbeing of his subjects through economic development, Clement XII granted Ancona in Le Marche freeport status and commissioned the architect Luigi Vanvitelli to redesign the ancient port.

He also commissioned Vanvitelli to build the Lazzaretto of Ancona as a quarantine station for the port.

After Clement XII’s death in 1740 his remains were transferred to a tomb in the Basilica of San Giovanni in Laterano, for which he had commissioned the building of a new facade after organising a competition, won by Alessandro Galilei, who completed it in 1735.

The Arch of Clementine with the Arch of Trajan in the foreground
The Arch of Clementine with the
Arch of Trajan in the foreground
Travel tip:

The architect Luigi Vanvitelli  worked extensively in Ancona in the 1730s under Pope Clement XII, who commissioned him to modernize and expand Ancona’s maritime infrastructure, which had fallen into decline. His contributions included redesigning the port layout, building the Molo Nuovo (New Pier) and most notably the Lazzaretto, also known as the Mole Vanvitelliana, a striking pentagonal complex built on an artificial island, which originally served as a quarantine station for travelers and goods. He also built the Chiesa del GesĂą and Casa degli Esercizi spirituali - a church and adjoining spiritual retreat house facing the port, and the Arch of Clementine, which he built just a few metres away from the Arch of Trajan, built 1600 years earlier by the Senate and people of Rome in honour of the Emperor Trajan, who expanded the port of the city out of his own pocket, improving the docks and the fortifications.

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The statue of Pope Clement XII in front of the San Domenico church
The statue of Pope Clement XII in
front of the San Domenico church
Travel tip:

Also in Ancona, in front of the Chiesa di San Domenico and looking out across the rectangular Piazza del Plebescito, is a statue of Pope Clement XII, the work of the sculptor Agostino Cornacchini, which was erected in 1738. It was originally destined for the portico of the Basilica of San Giovanni in Laterano in Rome, where it remained for just under a year before being moved to Ancona at the suggestion of the pope’s nephew, Cardinal Neri Maria Corsini, in recognition of the work he had commissioned to modernise the port and the city.  Piazza del Plebiscito is also known locally as Piazza del Papa. The Chiesa di San Domenico, at the top of the square’s incline, is a Baroque church built by Carlo Marchionni and completed in 1778. The interior is notable for two outstanding paintings, the Annunciation by Guercino in the first chapel on the left, and Titian’s altarpiece, The Crucifixion. 

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More reading:

How the election of Antipope Clement VII sparked a split in Catholic Church

Pope Innocent XII, the pontiff who ended the practice of nepotism in the papal appointments

The flamboyant pope who helped make books available to ordinary people

Also on this day:

1763: The birth of musician Domenico Dragonetti 

1794: The birth of opera singer Giovanni Battista Rubini

1883: The birth of painter and mosaicist Gino Severini

1906: Vesuvius eruption kills more than 200

1973: The birth of footballer Marco Delvecchio


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11 February 2026

Anton Giulio Bragaglia - theatre director and photographer

Intellectual whose work sparked argument among Futurists

Photography was only part of Anton Giulio Bragaglia's artistic life
Photography was only part of Anton
Giulio Bragaglia's artistic life
Anton Giulio Bragaglia, a film and theatre director and writer whose early work with photography made him an important if controversial figure in the Italian Futurist movement, was born on this day in 1890 in Piglio, an historic hilltop town about 55km (33 miles) east of Rome, in Lazio.

Bragaglia began his working life in Italy’s nascent movie industry - his father, Francesco, was employed at a studio in Rome - and went on to influence Italy’s cultural life in many more ways as a theatre director, cinematographer and the founder or editor of a number of arts magazines, in addition to his work with photography.

He also founded in 1922 the Teatro Sperimentale degli Independenti, an alternative theatre built by adapting the ancient Roman baths of Septimius Severus in Via degli Avignonesi, a street that runs parallel with the top end of Via del Tritone, near Piazza Barberini.

Francesco Bragaglia, an engineer, was the first technical director of the Cines film studio, which opened in 1906 near Porta San Giovanni in the Italian capital.

Anton Giulio joined the studio as an assistant director in the same year, gaining considerable experience working alongside directors Mario Caserini and Enrico Guazzoni.

When he was 19, however, still to become established as the director, set designer, and cinematographer he would be remembered as, Bragaglia became excited by the fledgling Italian Futurist movement and their enthusiasm for speed, dynamism and technology.


He and his older brothers, Arturo and Carlo Ludovico, both of whom worked, like Anton Giulio, in the film business, wanted to become active participants in the movement, which rejected traditional art and would influence painting, literature, sculpture and architecture in Italy in the early part of the 20th century.

Through their experimental work with cameras, they found ways to capture movement, energy, and continuity in photographs, using long exposures to create blurred forms and the impression of movement. 

Anton Giulio set out their methods and vision in his 1911 manifesto, entitled Fotodinamismo futurista.  His photodynamic works, such as Waving and The Typist, were widely admired for demonstrating motion as the essence of modern life and through these he hoped to establish photography as a central medium of Futurist experimentation and a tool for expressing the rhythms of modernity. 

Bragaglia's The Typist, in which his open shutter technique was able to capture a sense of movement
Bragaglia's The Typist, in which his open shutter
technique was able to capture a sense of movement
Filippo Tommaso Marinetti, the founder of the Futurist movement, was supportive of their contribution and was happy to help them fund exhibitions of their work - although ultimately the movement expelled them in 1913 due to fundamental disagreements over whether photography could be considered as an art form.

This was mainly down to the influence of Umberto Boccioni, the painter and sculptor, who argued that photography was a mechanical medium that merely copied reality, not true creative art, and could undermine the high-art status of Futurist painting. 

Boccioni and others felt that Anton Giulio Bragaglia had been presumptuous in publishing his Fotodinamismo futurista manifesto, accusing him of trying to act as a spokesman for the movement without having the permission to do so. 

Despite their expulsion in 1913, Anton Giulio Bragaglia continued to contribute to the avant-garde movement, later founding the Casa d'arte Bragaglia in 1918, welcoming Futurist artists and giving them space to exhibit their work.

He continued to experiment with photography, his work being exhibited in Italy and abroad, including the Venice Biennale in 1924 and 1926.

By then Bragaglia had made a broader impression in the arts world. Having become editor-in-chief of the artistic and theatrical periodical L’Artista in 1911, he founded the magazine La Ruoto and the periodical Cronache di AttualitĂ , attracting impressive lists of contributors to both that included Gabriele D'Annunzio, Grazia Deledda, Rudyard Kipling, Luigi Pirandello, Corrado Alvaro, the poet Trilussa and artists Giorgio De Chirico and Fortunato Depero. 

A section of the interior of  Bragaglia's Teatro Sperimentale
A section of the interior of 
Bragaglia's Teatro Sperimentale
He made a number of films, largely with a Futurist imprint, in no small part due to the avant-garde scenography of Enrico Prampolini. 

In 1918 he founded and directed the Casa d'Arte Bragaglia, which he inaugurated with a personal exhibition by the Futurist painter Giacomo Balla. The following year he directed his first play at the Teatro Argentina in Rome. 

In 1922 he opened the Teatro Sperimentale degli Indipendenti, which he directed until 1936, having entrusted the architect and artist Virgilio Marchi with the adaptation of the ancient Roman baths. He engaged Balla, Depero and Prampolini to take care of furnishings and decoration, again with a heavy accent on Futurist styles. 

The Teatro Sperimentale degli Indipendenti became a point of reference for the Italian avant-garde, although Bragaglia did not close the door on traditional theatrical forms. Although he embraced the innovations of international theatre, he was also keen to promote young Italian playwrights.

An intellectual with a considerable range of interests, he wrote extensively as a critic on cinema, theatre, dance, scenography and stagecraft, often travelling across Europe and to America to host exhibition and conference tours, while still working actively in the theatre, in which he eventually directed more than 50 productions.

He directed for the last time at the Rome Opera House in 1960, staging Pietro Mascagni's Le maschere, an opera written as an homage to Italian comic opera - opera buffa - and the traditions of commedia dell'arte.

Bragaglia died in July 1960 at the age of 70. His funeral and burial took place at the Verano monumental cemetery in Rome, not far from the Sapienza University.

Piglio occupies an elevated position with  sweeping views across the Sacco Valley
Piglio occupies an elevated position with 
sweeping views across the Sacco Valley
Travel tip:

Built on a spur of Monte Scalambra, a somewhat isolated mountain located on the border between the Metropolitan City of Rome and the Province of Frosinone, Bragaglia’s birthplace, Piglio, overlooks the Sacco Valley.  At the highest point of the small town stands the castle built by the Colonna family just over 1,000 years ago. The Colonnas lost control of the town but regained it in the 14th century and retained control until the early 19th century. With a history that goes back to ancient Roman times, the town’s strategic position has not always been to its advantage. A fierce battle between the Romans and Hannibal’s army in the valley during the Second Punic War, Napoleon’s armies largely burnt it down in the late 18th century and it was bombed by Allied planes in World War Two. Happily, it has been quieter in recent times and Pope John Paul II used to go there for moments of relaxation, a habit which is commemorated in a path laid out in the town, in which significant quotations attributed to him are engraved. Today, Piglio is known as part of the Cesanese DOCG red wine production area, staging a wine festival in October each year. 

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The Palazzo Barberini, built in the 17th century, now houses one of Rome's major art museums
The Palazzo Barberini, built in the 17th century,
now houses one of Rome's major art museums
Travel tip:

Bragaglia opened his Teatro Sperimentale degli Independenti within some ancient Roman baths in the district of Rome known as Rione II - Trevi, an area right at the heart of one of Rome’s most visited areas. Naturally, it features the iconic Trevi Fountain, now more than 250 years old, which remains one of the city’s most popular attractions, so much so that the city now charges tourists a €2 euro fee for the privilege of seeing the fountain close up at peak times. Other major sights within the Trevi rione are the Palazzo Barberini, the Baroque palace built for the Barberini family in the 17th century that stands directly off the piazza and houses one of Rome’s major art museums; the Fontana del Tritone, Gian Lorenzo Bernini’s 1643 masterpiece which is the centrepiece of Piazza Barberini; and the Fontana delle Api, another Bernini fountain located just off the piazza.The Via Veneto, one of the city’s most famous boulevards thanks to its association with the Dolce Vita era, begins at Piazza Barberini, while the Quirinal Hill area, which includes several historic churches and the Palazzo Quirinale, the official residence of the Italian President, is also nearby. 

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More reading:

Umberto Boccioni, the leading Futurist artist who died tragically young

How Giacomo Balla’s paintings captured movement and speed

Giorgio De Chirico, founder of the scuola metafisica of Italian art

Also on this day:

1791: The birth of architect Louis Visconti

1881: The birth of Futurist painter Carlo CarrĂ 

1917: The birth of film director Giuseppe De Santis

1929: Lateran Treaty gives independence to Vatican

1948: The birth of footballer Carlo Sartori

1995: The birth of singer Gianluca Ginoble


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