Procopio Cutò - chef and entrepreneur

Sicilian who popularised coffee and gelato in 17th century Paris

Procopio Cutò, born in Sicily, founded
the most successful café in Paris

The chef and café proprietor Procopio Cutò, who opened one of the earliest coffee houses in Paris and has been credited with introducing Italian ice cream to the French capital, was born in Sicily on this day in 1651.

Cutò, whose full name was Francesco Procopio Cutò and at times called himself Francesco Procopio dei Coltelli, or François Procope, was the owner and founder of the Café Procope, which thanks to its illustrious clientele can claim to have been the first literary coffee house in Paris.

The café opened for business in 1686 and traded continuously for around 200 years before closing in the late 19th century.  

The name was revived in the 1950s and the original premises in Rue de l'Ancienne Comédie - in the Saint-Germain-des-Prés quarter on the left bank of the Seine - is again called Café Procope, although it is now a restaurant rather than a coffee house.

It was thought for many years that Cutò was born in Aci Trezza, a town on Sicily’s eastern coast, a little over 10km (six miles) north of Catania, the island’s second largest city. However, the discovery of baptismal certificate in the archives of the Church of Sant'Ippolito in the Capo district of Palermo suggests he was born in the capital.

The surname Cutò, while common in Sicily at the time of his birth, is of Greek origin. The first name Procopio was inspired by the Greek historian Procopius.

Although there is evidence that flavours were added to snow and ice as a refreshment in ancient Rome and Greece, ice cream had yet to be produced commercially as Cutò was growing up.

Café Procope's elegant and luxurious decor
 attracted an upmarket, intellectual clientele

Sorbets had been introduced to Sicily by Arabs. Cutò’s grandfather had invented a machine that could produce sorbets, which were ‘frozen’ using a combination of natural snow or ice and salt, which kept the ice cooler for longer. When he died, he left the machine to his grandson, who made some modifications to it and believed he could use it to make sorbets on a larger scale. 

With dreams of making his fortune by producing and selling his ices, Cutò chose to try his luck in Paris because, with a population of half a million, the French capital was at the time the largest city in Europe.

Having travelled through mainland Italy, he is thought to have arrived there at some point between 1670 and 1674. He took jobs along the way, in one of which he acquired cooking skills, joined a guild of drinks-makers soon after reaching Paris and becoming apprenticed to an Armenian, called Pascal, who had a kiosk serving lemonade and coffee on Rue de Tournan. It was one of the first such establishments to call itself a café. When Pascal moved to London in 1675, he allowed Cutò to take over.

In the meantime, using the gelato-making methods he had learned from his grandfather, Cutò developed a range of flavoured ices and successfully applied for a licence to sell them from his kiosk. In search of a bigger market, he opened a second stall at the nearby Foire Saint-Germain, a large covered marketplace which staged annual fairs that could accommodate 300 merchants.

The writer Voltaire, who
was a Procope regular

In 1686, Cutò relocated his kiosk to the Café Procope’s present location, on a street which was then called Rue des Fossés-Saint-Germain-des-Prés.  Although there were coffee houses in Paris already, they were mainly frequented by the lower classes and immigrants.

Cutò believed that if he changed the image of the coffee house, he could appeal to a wealthier, more sophisticated branch of Parisian society. With that aim, he bought up a redundant bath house, stripped out all its bathing facilities and repurposed it as a luxury meeting place, with crystal chandeliers, wall mirrors and marble tables. 

It soon became a place where stylish gentlemen would develop a taste for coffee and Cutò’s fruit sorbets, which were served in porcelain cups by elegant waiters. 

Cutò’s big break came in 1689, when the Comédie-Française opened its doors in a theatre across the street from his café. A new crowd of young intellectuals began to frequent the Café Procope, establishing the venue as one of the first literary cafes.

Over time, the likes of Voltaire, Maximilien Robespierre, Victor Hugo, Pierre Beaumarchais, Jean-Jacques Rousseau and Honoré de Balzac would become regulars. Oscar Wilde and Henry Wadsworth Longfellow are also known to have visited, along with American political luminaries such as Benjamin Franklin and Thomas Jefferson.  Even Napoleon Bonaparte took coffee there.

The Café Procope, in Rue de l'Ancienne Comédie,

  is still in business today as a thriving restaurant 

Franklin, one of America’s ‘founding fathers’, is said to have drafted the terms of the 1778 Treaty of Alliance with French king Louis XVI while sitting at one of Café Procope’s tables.

The Café Procope thus became the most famous and successful café in Paris and is credited with turning France into a coffee-drinking society.

Cutò, who married three times and fathered at least 14 children, became wealthy as a result. Having adopted the surname Dei Coltelli soon after arriving in Paris when his name was misspelled as Couteaux - the French word for knives (coltelli in Italian) - in 1702 he changed it to François Procope not long after becoming a French citizen.

In 1716, he handed the running of Café Procope to his second son, Alexandre. Cutò continued to run his kiosk at the Foire Saint-Germain before passing away in 1727 at the age of 76. 

The dramatic rock formation off the coast at Aci
Trezza is known as the Islands of the Cyclops

Travel tip:

Aci Trezza, which for many years was thought to have been the birthplace of Procopio Cutò, is a small fishing town within easy reach of the Sicilian city of Catania that has become a popular resort. It has rocky volcanic beaches which look out over some dramatic rock formations in the sea known as the Islands of the Cyclops, sometimes called the Faraglioni of Trezza. The main part of the town is clustered around the harbour and the Chiesa Madre di San Giovanni Battista, Aci Trezza’s parish church. Many houses have been painted in pastel colours. The town is particularly lively in the evening thanks to its reputation for having outstanding fish restaurants. The town hosts a fish festival every July. Its connection with Cutò may have arisen because Aci Trezza is one of many towns that sit in the shadow of Mount Etna, where snow from the upper slopes used to be collected for turning into sorbets. It is possible that Cutò may have visited the area while perfecting his recipe for gelato.

The daily Mercato di Capo runs the whole length
of the Via Sant'Agostino in the centre of Palermo

Travel tip:

Capo, the neighbourhood of Palermo where Procopio Cutò is likely to have been born, is one of the original four quarters of Palermo established during the Spanish rule of the city, which lasted from early 15th century until Italy became a unified country in the 19th century. Also known as Seralcadi, derived from the Arabic name Sari al Cadì, the area nestles between Palermo’s duomo - the Cattedrale della Santa Vergine Maria Assunta - the Teatro Massimo, and Via Maqueda, one of the city’s main thoroughfares. The largest opera house in Italy, able to accommodate an audience of 1,350 people, the Renaissance-style Teatro Massimo opened in 1897, with an initial capacity of 3,000. It closed in 1974 for supposedly minor repairs but a lack of funding prevented its re-opening for 23 years. A major attraction for visitors to Capo is the huge, historic outdoor street market, which occupies virtually the length of Via Sant’Agostino, selling everything from fresh fish, fruit and vegetables to clothes, household items and local handicrafts. Street food can be found in abundance, in particular the Sicilian specialities - arancini, cannoli and panelle.

Also on this day:

1621: The election of Pope Gregory XV

1770: The birth of classical guitarist and composer Ferdinando Carulli

1891: The birth of left-wing politician Pietro Nenni

1953: The birth of boxer Vito Antuofermo

1953: The birth of missionary Ezechiele Ramin

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Giovanni Capurro - poet and songwriter

Neapolitan who wrote the words to ‘O sole mio

Giovanni Capurro wrote many songs
but made little money from them

Giovanni Capurro, a poet and songwriter best known for writing the lyric of the classic Neapolitan song ‘O sole mio, was born in Naples on this day in 1859. 

The son of a professor of languages, Capurro was a cultured man who would in time be considered one of the 19th century’s finest Italian poets, yet was never well rewarded for his art. He spent much of his working life as a journalist and died poor.

Capurro grew up in the Montecalvario district of Naples, an area of the city centre that climbs up the hill of San Martino to the west of Via Toledo. Although his first love was writing, and poetry in particular, he was also a talented musician, graduating from the Naples Conservatory after studying the flute. He was also blessed with a good singing voice.

He wrote poetry in both Italian and Neapolitan dialect, both in the form of song lyrics and volumes of poetry. The celebrated actor, Raffaele Viviani, made his first appearance on the stage of an established theatre - the Teatro Perella in Basso Porto - at the age of four, in a sketch written by Capurro entitled Scugnizzo - The Street Urchin.

Capurro published more than 30 lyrics that were put to music, none more famous than ‘O sole mio, which he wrote in 1898, asking Eduardo di Capua, a Neapolitan songwriter and composer, to set it to music. Di Capua, for many credited with writing the melody alone, was later declared only to be the co-composer, after a court in Turin was satisfied that the melody had been an adaptation of one di Capua had bought from another musician, Alfredo Mazzucchi.

The song was presented at the famous Piedigrotta Festival, the music competition in the Chiaia district of Naples that was the launching pad for many famous Neapolitan songs.

The cover of the first edition of the 
sheet music of Capurro's 'O sole mio

It had already been well received when played around Naples yet the judges for the competition decided it was worth only second place behind a song called Napule Bello. However, there was such a public outcry that the decision was reversed.

Capurro’s other songs included Carduccianelle, N'atu munasterio, Napulitanata, Ammore che gira, Totonno 'e Quagliarelle, 'O scugnizzo, 'O guaglione d' 'o speziale, Lily Kangy, Chitarra mia and 'A chiantosa.

Yet he received little money for any of them. He sold the rights to ‘O sole mio, to a publishing house for a one-time fee. 

Had he any notion of how famous it would become - it has featured in the repertoire of such illustrious tenors as Luciano Pavarotti, Enrico Caruso, Andrea Bocelli and Beniamino Gigli - he would surely have negotiated a royalties deal.

As it was, he did not write with the aim of making money, merely to indulge his own fascination with the art. Early in his writing career, his poem Carduccianelle adapted to Neapolitan the evocations of Classical world employed by Nobel Prize-winning poet Giosuè Carducci a few years earlier in his Odi Barbare. Neapolitan readers regarded it more as a curiosity than as a book of true poetry.

Capurri delighted in spending his evenings in salons, where he would sing, play the piano and amuse audiences with his imitations of famous performers, but made his living as a journalist.

Beginning with the socialist periodical La Montagna, he then wrote for the Naples political newspaper Don Marzio, before joining the staff of the daily newspaper, Roma, in 1896, working initially as a reporter before becoming a theatre critic.

Married with three children, Capurro died in Naples in 1920 at the age of 61.

The upper parts of Montecalvario offer some
stunning views over the city of Naples

Travel tip:

The Montecalvario neighbourhood is the area of central Naples that includes the northern part of the Quartieri Spagnoli - the Spanish Quarter - the network of teeming streets that was built in the 16th century to house Spanish soldiers after the armies of Ferdinand II of Aragon had defeated the French to take control of the city. The main part of Montecalvario is to the west of Via Toledo, one of the city’s main shopping thoroughfares, which follows a long, straight course from Piazza Dante, through Piazza Carità before ending at Piazza Trieste e Trento, near Piazza del Plebiscito. The bustling Mercato Pignasecca offers a chance to experience shopping with the locals, while a climb up to Corso Vittorio Emanuele, the street which borders the upper part of the neighbourhood, is worth it to find a vantage point for spectacular views over the city.

The church of Santa Maria di Piedigrotta, which
is the origin of the annual Festa della Madonna

Travel tip:

Piedigrotta is an area that forms part of ​​the Chiaia district of Naples, close to the port at Mergellina. It takes its name from its location at the foot of a tunnel - "ai pedi grotta" - built into the  Posillipo hill in Roman times. It is best known for its annual Festa della Madonna di Piedigrotta, an occasion of fireworks and parades that has been staged every September since the 1800s. For many years, the celebrations included an annual song competition, the Neapolitan Song Festival, which showcased the city’s tradition of street musicians entertaining audiences with folk songs in Neapolitan dialect. It did much to popularise Neapolitan Songs as a genre, challenging the city’s most talented lyricists to excel. The competition launched in 1890 and became enormously successful, but was suspended in the 1960s because of repeated public order incidents as crowds got out of control. There have been a number of attempts in recent years to revive the contest but it has yet to be reinstated as an annual event.

Also on this day:

Catania celebrates the Feast of Saint Agatha

1578: The death of painter Giovanni Battista Moroni

1887: Verdi’s Otello premieres in Milan

1932: The birth of football coach Cesare Maldini

1960: Movie La dolce vita shown in public for first time

1964: The birth of footballer and coach Carolina Morace

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Manuela Di Centa - Olympic skiing champion

Friulian won five medals at a single Winter Games

Manuela Di Centa in action at the 1994 Winter
Olympics in Norway, where she won five medals

The Olympic skier, mountaineer and former politician Manuela Di Centa was born on this day in 1963 in the small town of Paluzza in the mountainous north of the Friuli-Venezia Giulia region, less than five miles (8km) from the Austrian border.

Di Centa made history at the 1994 Winter Olympics in Lillehammer, Norway, when she won a total of five medals, including two golds - the only cross-country skier to accumulate so many medals at a single Games.

Three times Italy’s national fell running champion, Di Centa went on to become the first Italian woman to climb Mount Everest when she scaled the world’s highest peak in 2003, planting the five-ringed Olympic flag at the summit.

A member of the International Olympic Committee from 1999 to 2010, Di Centa has also represented her region as a politician, sitting in the Italian Chamber of Deputies for the Forza Italia and People of Freedom parties between 2006 and 2013.

Born and raised in the beautiful surroundings of the Carnia region of Friuli, Di Centa grew up in a family of Nordic skiers and took to skis almost as naturally as learning to walk.

Di Centa on her ascent
of Mount Everest

After some impressive displays in youth level skiing, she made her debut for the Italy national team at the age of 17 in 1980, contested her first World Championships events in 1982 and competed in her first Winter Olympics in Sarajevo in 1984.

She won her first medals in either competition at the 1991 World Championships on home territory in Val di Fiemme in the Dolomites, when she won silver in the four by 5km relay - alongside Bice Vanzetta, Gabriella Paruzzi and Stefania Belmondo - and individual bronze over 5km and 30km.  The 5km relay team repeated their bronze medal success at the Olympics at Albertville in France the following year.

Di Centa pocketed a World Championship 30km silver and a medal of the same colour in the four by 5km relay at Falun in Sweden in 1993 but it was at the Olympics in Lillehammer the following February that she hit her peak.

She medalled in all five cross-country events in which she competed, winning golds over 15km and 30km, silver in the 5km and pursuit, and a second bronze in the four by 5km relay. 

No cross-country skier - male or female - has won five medals at a single Winter Olympics before or since. Another relay bronze at the 1998 Games in Nagano in Japan raised her career total Olympic medal haul to seven, after which she announced her retirement from competition.

Her World Championship medal haul was also seven - including four silvers but no gold. She twice won her sport’s prestigious World Cup, finishing first in 15 events all told and being crowned overall champion in 1994 and 1996.

Di Centa's official photograph as a
member of the Chamber of Deputies

An accomplished fell runner as well as a skier - winning the Italian championships in 1985, 1989 and 1991 - Di Centa then turned her knowledge of mountainous terrain into more achievement.

Having revealed that she had two childhood dreams - to compete at the Olympics and to climb the world’s highest mountain - she achieved the latter on May 23, 2003 by becoming the first Italian woman to reach the 8,848m summit of Mount Everest. 

She needed supplementary oxygen for the final 1,500m but was determined to complete the climb - 50 years after Sir Edmund Hillary and Sherpa Tenzing Norgay conquered it for the first time in 1953.  Di Centa celebrated by planting the Olympic and Italian flags at the summit.

Di Centa has also enjoyed a successful career as a television presenter, mainly in programmes dedicated to her beloved mountains, and successfully ran for election to the Chamber of Deputies in 2006 as a Forza Italia candidate for Friuli-Venezia Giulia, and in 2008 for Trentino Alto-Adige as a member of Il Popolo della Libertá - the People of Freedom.

Married to the mountaineer and cross-country skier Fabio Meraldi, Manuela di Centa is the sister of another Olympic cross-country skiing gold medallist, Giorgio Di Centa, and the cousin of long distance runner Venanzio Ortis, who was European 5,000m champion in 1978.

Giorgio Di Centa won Olympic gold in the 50km and four by 10km events at the Turin Olympics in 2006, where Manuela was one of the flag bearers and, in her role as Italian representative on the IOC, presented her brother with one of his golds.

Manuela and Giorgio’s maternal grandmother, Irma Englaro, served with distinction as a Carnic Porter during the First World War, one of a legion of local women who helped Italy’s war effort along the Carnia front by transporting supplies and ammunition in their back-borne panniers.

Carnia, the region in which Paluzza is situated, 
 is an area of outstanding natural beauty 

Travel tip:

Manuela Di Centa’s place of birth, Paluzza - Paluce in Friulian dialect - is a small town of around 2,200 inhabitants situated about 120km (75 miles) northwest of Trieste and approximately 50km (31 miles) northwest of Udine, in the historic Carnia region of Friuli, close to the border with Austria. It is best known today as a ski resort, famed for its cross-country ski runs, but historically it was a key strategic defensive position where a castle - Castrum Moscardum - was built in the 13th century to guard the valley against invaders from the north. One tower of the castle remains standing today. The valley in which Paluzza sits - the Val Bût or Canale di San Pietro - is one of five that make up the picturesque Carnia region, which includes 27 municipalities. Carnia is thought to take its name from the Germanic Carni tribe who are thought to have migrated south from around 400 BC, reaching the area through the Plöcken Pass.

The Loggia del Lionello is a feature of Udine's
beautiful main square, Piazza della Libertà

Travel tip:

Udine, the nearest city to Di Centa’s home town, is an attractive and wealthy provincial city and the gastronomic capital of Friuli-Venezia Giulia. Udine's most attractive area lies within the mediæval centre, which has Venetian, Greek and Roman influences. The main square, Piazza della Libertà, features the town hall, the Loggia del Lionello, built in 1448–1457 in the Venetian-Gothic style, and a clock tower, the Torre dell’Orologio, which is similar to the clock tower in Piazza San Marco - St Mark's Square - in Venice.  The city was part of the Austrian Empire between 1797 and 1866 and retains elements of a café society as legacy from that era, particularly around Piazza Matteotti, known locally as il salotto di Udine - Udine's drawing room.  Long regarded as something of a hidden gem, Udine does not attract the tourist traffic of other, better-known Italian cities, yet with its upmarket coffee shops, artisan boutiques and warm, traditional eating places in an elegant setting, it has much to commend it.

Also on this day:

1788: The death of royal exile Charles Edward Stuart

1857: The birth of architect Ernesto Basile

1888: The death of Saint Don Bosco

1925: The birth of fashion designer Mariuccia Mandelli

1933: The birth of Mafia boss Bernardo Provenzano

1942: The birth of actress Daniela Bianchi

1951: Final of the first Sanremo Music Festival

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