Showing posts with label Naples. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Naples. Show all posts

28 February 2025

Luisa Sanfelice - executed aristocrat

'Heroine' may have been accidental revolutionary 

Gioacchino Toma's painting, Luisa Sanfelice in  Prison, in the National Museum of Capodimente
Gioacchino Toma's painting, Luisa Sanfelice in 
Prison,
in the National Museum of Capodimente
Luisa Sanfelice, an aristocrat executed on the orders of Ferdinand I of the Two Sicilies because of her involvement with the French-backed Parthenopean Republic, was born on this day in 1764 in Naples.

Sanfelice was hailed as a heroine by supporters of the short-lived republic after revealing a plot among monarchist supporters to stage a violent uprising and reinstate Ferdinand and his wife, Queen Maria Carolina, who had been ousted by an invading French army in 1799. 

She ultimately paid for her actions with her life when King Ferdinand - known also as Ferdinand IV of Naples - returned to power, yet historians believe she had no strong loyalty to either side and perhaps the unwitting victim of her own circumstances, which cast her as a revolutionary almost by accident.

Born Maria Luisa Fortunata de Molina, the daughter of Bourbon general of Spanish origin, she became Luisa Sanfelice - sometimes known as Luigia - at the age of 17 after marrying a dissolute Neapolitan nobleman, Andrea Sanfelice.

Despite their lack of means, the young newlyweds enjoyed an extravagant lifestyle, running up huge debts, which only worsened when the marriage produced three children.

King Ferdinand had Sanfelice killed  for her part in a failed insurrection
King Ferdinand had Sanfelice killed 
for her part in a failed insurrection 
At the behest of Luisa’s mother, the couple’s children were taken away and put into the care of a convent. Luisa and Andrea were effectively exiled to the Sanfelice family estate near Agropoli in the Cilento region of what is now southern Campania. 

When even these measures failed to curb their excesses, they were forcibly separated, Luisa placed in a conservatory at Montecorvino Rovella, a village in the mountains above Salerno, Andrea in a convent in Nocera, some 40km (25 miles) away. Both managed to escape their captivity and returned to Naples and their home in the Palazzo Mastelloni in the centre of the city, on what is now Piazza Carità.

In 1797, however, Andrea was arrested and thrown into a debtors’ prison.

Luisa’s life now took a different course, ultimately leading to her downfall. 

She began to attend the city’s salons, where wealthy members of society would rub shoulders with artists and intellectuals. Luisa had no political affiliations, mixing with monarchists as comfortably as with republicans. Still a relatively young woman, Luisa inevitably attracted male attention.

One of her suitors was Gerardo Baccher, an officer in the royal army who was loyal to Ferdinand. It was he who confided in her about the plot, for which he and his co-conspirators, had enlisted the help of the Bourbons and of the British fleet under the leadership of Horatio Nelson, to explode bombs during a festival in Naples, and in the ensuing chaos kill the Republic leaders and take control of the city.


Aware that having such knowledge might put her in danger, she asked Gerardo for a safe conduct warrant, so that her life would be spared after the insurrection had taken place. Baccher, smitten with her, willingly acceded to her request. 

Actress Laetitia Casta played  Sanfelice in a 2004 TV drama
Actress Laetitia Casta played 
Sanfelice in a 2004 TV drama
Unbeknown to him, Luisa had become enamoured with a young republican, Ferdinando Ferri. Fearing for his safety, she warned Ferri of what was being planned and handed her safe conduct warrant to him. Ferri duly reported the plot to the authorities, after which Baccher, his brother and others were arrested and killed by firing squad in the courtyard of the Castel Nuovo.

Luisa’s part in the foiling of this plot might never have come to light had it not been for Eleonora Pimentel Fonseca, a journalist and a major figure in the republican movement, who wrote an editorial in Monitore Napoletano, the republican periodical, in which she felt compelled to name ‘one of our distinguished fellow citizens, Luisa Molina Sanfelice, [who] revealed to the government on Friday evening the conspiracy of a few people who were no more wicked than idiots’, adding that ‘Our Republic must not fail to perpetuate the fact and the name of this illustrious citizen.’

After the Parthenopean Republic did collapse, in June 1799, only six months after coming into existence, and King Ferdinand resumed his rule, Luisa was promptly arrested and condemned to death.

She won a stay of execution by claiming she was pregnant, her assertion supported by two doctors in Naples. But Ferdinand sent her to Palermo to see another physician, who determined that she was not pregnant. She was ultimately executed on September 11, 1800.

Luisa Sanfelice’s story has captured the imagination of writers, painters and film-makers, old and new. 

The celebrated 19th century French writer and playwright, Alexandre Dumas père, made her the protagonist of his novel, La sanfelice, which was turned into a film, Luisa Sanfelice, directed by Leo Menardi in 1942. The most recent interpretation of the story for the screen was a TV film made in 2004, directed by the Taviani brothers, Paolo and Vittorio.

The story also inspired works of art in the 19th century, notably Modesto Faustini's canvas The Arrest of Luisa Sanfelice and several by Gioacchino Toma, who created Sanfelice Taken to Prison in Palermo (1855), Sanfelice's Cell (approx 1876), and two versions of Luisa Sanfelice in Prison, which are considered as Italian masterpieces.

The staircase inside the  Palazzo Mastelloni in Naples
The staircase inside the 
Palazzo Mastelloni in Naples
Travel tip:

The Sanfelice family’s home in Naples was in the Palazzo Mastelloni, a palace on the Piazza Carità, a square on the Via Toledo in central Naples. They occupied the first floor of the palace, which has existed at least since the 16th century and in which the Mastellone family had an interest since the late 17th century. At the time of Luisa Sanfelice’s arrest in 1799, it was owned by the Marquess Emanuele Mastellone, a minister in the Parthenopean Republic The palace was badly damaged by an earthquake in 1732, after which the Mastelloni bought the entire building and decided to renovate it in Rococo style, the work being carried out under the supervision of Nicola Tagliacozzi Canale, a Neapolitan architect active between about 1723 and 1760.  Among the most striking architectural features of the building is the elliptical staircase with two symmetrical ramps that rises from the first floor courtyard and which was designed with Luisa Sanfelice’s input.

Agropoli's harbour, seen from the elevated  position of the Cilento town's historic centre
Agropoli's harbour, seen from the elevated 
position of the Cilento town's historic centre
Travel tip:

Agropoli, where the Safelice family owned an estate to which Luisa and Andrea were exiled after running up huge debts in Naples, is a seaside town in Campania at the start of the Cilento coastline. Its name comes from the strategic hilltop location of the old part of the town, which took the name Acropolis, meaning high town, during Greek rule of the area. Byzantines, Saracens and Aragonese all left their mark on its architecture and culture, notably via the Aragonese Castle, on top of the elevated promontory, which offers breathtaking views.  The area is renowned for crystal-clear waters and picturesque beaches, as well as having a historic centre with narrow, winding streets and historical buildings. While preserving its historical charm, Agropoli also offers modern amenities around a bustling harbour, including a variety of restaurants and shops.  It is a popular location for Italian tourists, in particular. 

Also on this day:

1783: The birth of poet and academic Gabriele Rossetti

1907: The birth of entrepreneur Domenico Agusta

1915: The birth of jam and juice maker Karl Zuegg

1940: The birth of racing driver Mario Andretti

1942: The birth of goalkeeper and coach Dino Zoff


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5 February 2025

Giovanni Capurro - poet and songwriter

Neapolitan who wrote the words to ‘O sole mio

Giovanni Capurro wrote many songs but made little money from them
Giovanni Capurro wrote many songs
but made little money from them

Giovanni Capurro, a poet and songwriter best known for writing the lyric of the classic Neapolitan song ‘O sole mio, was born in Naples on this day in 1859. 

The son of a professor of languages, Capurro was a cultured man who would in time be considered one of the 19th century’s finest Italian poets, yet was never well rewarded for his art. He spent much of his working life as a journalist and died poor.

Capurro grew up in the Montecalvario district of Naples, an area of the city centre that climbs up the hill of San Martino to the west of Via Toledo. Although his first love was writing, and poetry in particular, he was also a talented musician, graduating from the Naples Conservatory after studying the flute. He was also blessed with a good singing voice.

He wrote poetry in both Italian and Neapolitan dialect, both in the form of song lyrics and volumes of poetry. The celebrated actor, Raffaele Viviani, made his first appearance on the stage of an established theatre - the Teatro Perella in Basso Porto - at the age of four, in a sketch written by Capurro entitled Scugnizzo - The Street Urchin.

Capurro published more than 30 lyrics that were put to music, none more famous than ‘O sole mio, which he wrote in 1898, asking Eduardo di Capua, a Neapolitan songwriter and composer, to set it to music. Di Capua, for many credited with writing the melody alone, was later declared only to be the co-composer, after a court in Turin was satisfied that the melody had been an adaptation of one di Capua had bought from another musician, Alfredo Mazzucchi.


The song was presented at the famous Piedigrotta Festival, the music competition in the Chiaia district of Naples that was the launching pad for many famous Neapolitan songs.

The cover of the first edition of the  sheet music of Capurro's 'O sole mio
The cover of the first edition of the 
sheet music of Capurro's 'O sole mio
It had already been well received when played around Naples yet the judges for the competition decided it was worth only second place behind a song called Napule Bello. However, there was such a public outcry that the decision was reversed.

Capurro’s other songs included Carduccianelle, N'atu munasterio, Napulitanata, Ammore che gira, Totonno 'e Quagliarelle, 'O scugnizzo, 'O guaglione d' 'o speziale, Lily Kangy, Chitarra mia and 'A chiantosa.

Yet he received little money for any of them. He sold the rights to ‘O sole mio, to a publishing house for a one-time fee. 

Had he any notion of how famous it would become - it has featured in the repertoire of such illustrious tenors as Luciano Pavarotti, Enrico Caruso, Andrea Bocelli and Beniamino Gigli - he would surely have negotiated a royalties deal.

As it was, he did not write with the aim of making money, merely to indulge his own fascination with the art. Early in his writing career, his poem Carduccianelle adapted to Neapolitan the evocations of Classical world employed by Nobel Prize-winning poet Giosuè Carducci a few years earlier in his Odi Barbare. Neapolitan readers regarded it more as a curiosity than as a book of true poetry.

Capurri delighted in spending his evenings in salons, where he would sing, play the piano and amuse audiences with his imitations of famous performers, but made his living as a journalist.

Beginning with the socialist periodical La Montagna, he then wrote for the Naples political newspaper Don Marzio, before joining the staff of the daily newspaper, Roma, in 1896, working initially as a reporter before becoming a theatre critic.

Married with three children, Capurro died in Naples in 1920 at the age of 61.

The upper parts of Montecalvario offer some stunning views over the city of Naples
The upper parts of Montecalvario offer some
stunning views over the city of Naples
Travel tip:

The Montecalvario neighbourhood is the area of central Naples that includes the northern part of the Quartieri Spagnoli - the Spanish Quarter - the network of teeming streets that was built in the 16th century to house Spanish soldiers after the armies of Ferdinand II of Aragon had defeated the French to take control of the city. The main part of Montecalvario is to the west of Via Toledo, one of the city’s main shopping thoroughfares, which follows a long, straight course from Piazza Dante, through Piazza Carità before ending at Piazza Trieste e Trento, near Piazza del Plebiscito. The bustling Mercato Pignasecca offers a chance to experience shopping with the locals, while a climb up to Corso Vittorio Emanuele, the street which borders the upper part of the neighbourhood, is worth it to find a vantage point for spectacular views over the city.

The church of Santa Maria di Piedigrotta, which is the origin of the annual Festa della Madonna
The church of Santa Maria di Piedigrotta, which
is the origin of the annual Festa della Madonna
Travel tip:

Piedigrotta is an area that forms part of ​​the Chiaia district of Naples, close to the port at Mergellina. It takes its name from its location at the foot of a tunnel - "ai pedi grotta" - built into the  Posillipo hill in Roman times. It is best known for its annual Festa della Madonna di Piedigrotta, an occasion of fireworks and parades that has been staged every September since the 1800s. For many years, the celebrations included an annual song competition, the Neapolitan Song Festival, which showcased the city’s tradition of street musicians entertaining audiences with folk songs in Neapolitan dialect. It did much to popularise Neapolitan Songs as a genre, challenging the city’s most talented lyricists to excel. The competition launched in 1890 and became enormously successful, but was suspended in the 1960s because of repeated public order incidents as crowds got out of control. There have been a number of attempts in recent years to revive the contest but it has yet to be reinstated as an annual event.

Also on this day:

Catania celebrates the Feast of Saint Agatha

1578: The death of painter Giovanni Battista Moroni

1887: Verdi’s Otello premieres in Milan

1932: The birth of football coach Cesare Maldini

1960: Movie La dolce vita shown in public for first time

1964: The birth of footballer and coach Carolina Morace


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16 December 2024

Luisa Ranieri - actress

Naples-born star of The Hand of God

Luisa Ranieri in a scene from The Hand of God, which won her a Best Supporting Actress award
Luisa Ranieri in a scene from The Hand of God,
which won her a Best Supporting Actress award
The actress Luisa Ranieri, who received a Best Supporting Actress award for her performance in Paolo Sorrentino’s Oscar-nominated 2021 movie The Hand of God, was born on this day in 1973 in Naples.

Ranieri, who is married to Inspector Montalbano actor Luca Zingaretti, was honoured with a prestigious Nastro d’Argento for her portrayal of Patrizia, the troubled aunt of The Hand of God’s central character, Fabietto.

Among more than 30 films in a big screen career that began with a leading role in Leonardo Pieraccioni’s Il principe e il pirata (The Prince and the Pirate) in 2001, Ranieri is also well known for her performances in Michelangelo’s Antonioni’s Eros in 2004, in Pupi Avati’s Gli amici del Bar Margherita (The Friends of the Bar Margherita) in 2009 and Gary Winick’s final film, Letters to Juliet (2010).

Ranieri, whose latest movie, Diamanti, (Diamonds) directed by Ferzan Özpetek, premieres in Italy this week, also boasts a string of successes in television. 

In 2005, she won plaudits for her portrayal of the opera singer Maria Callas in a Canale 5 miniseries Callas e Onassis, and for playing the entrepreneur Luisa Spagnoli in the Rai fiction of the same name in 2016. Since 2021 she has filled the title role in the Rai crime series, Le indagini di Lolita Lobosco, (The Investigations of Lolita Lobosco) in which she plays a deputy commissioner of police in the southern Italian city of Bari. 

Ranieri won acclaim for her portrayal of Maria Callas
Ranieri won acclaim for her
portrayal of Maria Callas
It was while making another Rai miniseries, Cefalonia, in 2005 that she became romantically involved with co-star Zingaretti. The couple married in Sicily in 2012 and have two children. 

Ranieri spent her early years in the Vomero district of Naples, an upmarket suburb which occupies an elevated position that offers commanding views over the city. She enrolled in the Faculty of Law in the city’s university but gave up her studies to devote herself to acting, building the foundations of a career as a theatre actress before quickly landing the part in Il principe e il pirata in 2001, in which she also gained considerable exposure thanks to a starring role on a TV advertising campaign for Nestea, a major player in Italy’s lucrative iced tea market.

She quickly established her reputation as an actress of considerable talent, gaining significant recognition through TV roles, including playing Assunta Goretti, the mother of the child saint, Maria Goretti, who was murdered at the age of 11, in Giulio Base’s 2003 miniseries, and two years later Maria Callas opposite the Aristotle Onassis of French actor Gérard Darmon under Giorgio Capitani’s direction.

In 2009, the same year that Avati’s Gli amici del bar Margherita brought more critical acclaim, she demonstrated her versatility with a return to the stage, acting in the theatrical production of L'oro di Napoli (the Gold of Naples), directed by Gianfelice Imparato and Armando Pugliese, based on the stories of Neapolitan life by Giuseppe Marotta.

The terrace at the Castello di Donnafugata will be familiar to fans of the Montalbano TV series
The terrace at the Castello di Donnafugata will
be familiar to fans of the Montalbano TV series
Back on screen, Letters to Juliet further solidified her reputation in the film industry, which was taken to another level by The Hand of God - È stata la mano di Dio in Italian - in which her performance as Patrizia, the voluptuous aunt for whom main character Fabietto has an adolescent crush, and who escapes an abusive husband by admitting herself to a psychiatric hospital, attracted much acclaim and turned her into something of an icon for many Italian women.

As a further recognition of her standing in the acting profession, Ranieri was chosen to host the opening and closing nights of the 71st Venice International Film Festival in 2014.

Her marriage to Zingaretti caught the public imagination. After living together for several years, the couple tied the knot at the Castello di Donnafugata, a castle near Ragusa in Sicily where scenes were filmed in several episodes of the long-running Inspector Montalbano series. 

The Castel Sant'Elmo and the Certosa di San Martino tower above Naples on Vomero hill
The Castel Sant'Elmo and the Certosa di San
Martino tower above Naples on Vomero hill
Travel tip:

The Vomero district of Naples is widely-regarded as the most upmarket area of the city in which to live. Perched on a hill overlooking the city and the Bay of Naples, it is known for its elegant architecture, beautiful parks, and a more relaxed atmosphere compared to the sometimes chaotic nature of the southern Italian city’s centre.  Highlights include Castel Sant'Elmo, a mediaeval fortress offering stunning panoramic views of the city and the bay; the adjoining Certosa di San Martino, a former monastery that now houses a museum; the lively Piazza Vanvitelli, Vomero’s central square; and the Villa Floridiana, a beautiful park with gardens, fountains and another museum. Three funicular railways connect Vomero to the city centre. The district boasts a mix of high-end and local shops and a similar variety of restaurants. 

The magnificent Duomo di San Giorgio is one of the main attractions of Ragusa Ibla
The magnificent Duomo di San Giorgio is one
of the main attractions of Ragusa Ibla
Travel tip:

The city of Ragusa, at the centre of the area of southeastern Sicily where Andrea Camilleri’s Inspector Montalbano mysteries were filmed, is set in a rugged landscape with a mix of mediaeval and Baroque architecture. It has two parts - Ragusa Ibla, a town on top of a hill rebuilt on the site of the original settlement destroyed in a major earthquake in 1693, and Ragusa Superiore, which was built on flatter ground nearby in the wake of the earthquake.  A spectacular sight in its own right and affording wonderful views as well, Ragusa Ibla attracts visitors to its maze of narrow streets and to see the Duomo di San Giorgio, the magnificent 18th century Sicilian Baroque church that stands at the top of a wide flight of steps at the head of the sloping Piazza Duomo, the wide square that, with Corso XXV Aprile, comprises Ragusa Ibla’s central thoroughfare. Designed by Rosario Gagliardi, the cathedral is characterised by a monumental façade which incorporates the bell tower beneath a bulbous spire.

Also on this day:

1899: The founding of AC Milan football club

1944: The birth of businessman Santo Versace

1945: The death of Fiat founder Giovanni Agnelli

1952: The birth of footballer Francesco Graziani

1954: The birth of pop singer Ivana Spagna


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23 November 2024

Irpinia earthquake

A day that saw whole towns reduced to rubble in southern Italy

Aerial pictures show the remains of 
the village of Castelnuovo di Conza
An earthquake that has been described as ‘the worst catastrophe in the history of the Italian republic’ shook Campania and parts of Basilicata and Puglia on this day in 1980.

The earthquake, which takes its name from the geographical area of Campania known as Irpinia, had a moment magnitude of 6.9 and left 2,483 people dead, about 7,700 injured, and more than 250,000 homeless. The first shock lasted for a little more than a minute, but it was to change the lives forever of the residents in the worst hit towns and villages in the region.

The earthquake struck at 18:34 local time and after 70 seconds of shaking there were many aftershocks. Waves from it were felt as far away as Sicily and the Po Valley.

The village of Castelnuovo di Conza, in the province of Salerno, was at the centre of the blast and was virtually destroyed. Of the 1500 inhabitants, about 500 died or were injured after being trapped in the rubble of their homes, including both local policemen. About 80 per cent of the buildings were either destroyed, or partially collapsed, leaving many people homeless.

It was left to the local children and old people to dig for any survivors and the Mayor of the village later said they had been forced to wait for three days for help to arrive from outside the area. 

In nearby Sant’Angelo dei Lombardi, in the province of Avellino, 300 people were killed, including 27 children in an orphanage. Many historical buildings were left in ruins and some of them were never rebuilt. 

Scenes of devastation were witnessed in many towns and villages across the Irpinia area
Scenes of devastation were witnessed in many
towns and villages across the Irpinia area
In Naples, a ten-storey apartment building collapsed as a result of the tremor. Many buildings suffered extensive structural damage and had to be propped up to make them safe afterwards, leading to years of disruption to the lives of the people living there.

In Balvano in the province of Potenza in Basilicata, 100 people were killed when a mediaeval church collapsed during a service. Many of them were children and teenagers and the disaster effectively wiped out an entire generation of the local people.

The University of Basilicata was later built in Potenza on a site that had been flattened by the earthquake. It was seen as an attempt to persuade young people to stay in the area rather than moving north or emigrating to another country.  

Many landslides were triggered and rail traffic throughout Italy came to a complete standstill. The terrible situation was made worse by people trying to leave the affected areas in such large numbers that the roads became blocked.

On November 26, Italian president Sandro Pertini addressed the nation in a televised broadcast. He condemned the delays in rescuing people from the ruins after the earthquake and the failures that had been revealed in state intervention in the worst affected areas.

President Sandro Pertini, second  left, on a visit to the affected zone
President Sandro Pertini, second 
left, on a visit to the affected zone
As a result, Extraordinary Commissioner Giuseppe Zamberletti was appointed to coordinate rescue efforts and to communicate with the local mayors. In 1982, Zamberletti was appointed Minister for Civil Protection Co-ordination and a few months later the Department of Civil Protection was established in Italy.

When the 40th anniversary of the earthquake disaster was commemorated in Italy in 2020, some of the reconstruction work in the worst affected areas had still not been finished.

Although the Italian Government were said to have spent 59 trillion lire, and West Germany sent 32 million dollars and the US 70 million dollars to help, it is believed subsequently that some of the funds were misappropriated by Italian politicians and by the Camorra, who subsequently became involved in the construction industry.

On average, a significant earthquake happens every four years in Italy. The most recent was an earthquake of 5.1 moment magnitude in 2023 in Tuscany, when one person died and there was severe damage in some areas.

In 1976, more than 900 people died after an earthquake of 6.5 moment magnitude in Friuli, and in 1857, 10,000 people died after an earthquake of 7.0 moment magnitude in Basilicata.

If the Irpinia earthquake is the worst since the Republic of Italy was established in 1946, the most devastating in Italy’s history, at least in terms of reliable estimates of deaths, occurred in 1908 with its epicentre below the Straits of Messina. It caused catastrophic damage to the cities of Messina and Reggio Calabria with at least 75,000 and perhaps as many as 200,000 killed, the larger figure based on comparison of census data collected before and after the disaster.

The Benedictine Abbey of San Guglielmo al Goleto is just outside Sant'Angelo
The Benedictine Abbey of San Guglielmo
al Goleto is just outside Sant'Angelo
Travel tip:

Sant’ Angelo dei Lombardi is a town in the province of Avellino in Campania. It is situated on a hilltop and has a cathedral and a Lombard castle. The Benedictine Abbey of San Guglielmo al Goleto is nearby. A famous former resident of the town is the Italian-American actor and businessman Charles A Gargano, who was born in the town in 1934. He was the US Ambassador to Trinidad and Tobago during the presidencies of Ronald Reagan and George H W Bush. After the earthquake the Lombard castle was restored to its original mediaeval structure and is today home to an archive and museum.

Avellino's duomo, the Cattedrale di Santa Maria Assunta
Avellino's duomo, the Cattedrale
di Santa Maria Assunta
Travel tip:

The town of Avellino is the capital of the province of Avellino and an important centre on the road from Salerno to Benevento in Campania. It has its origins in the ancient Roman settlement, Abellinum, although the present town was founded by the Lombards and ruled at different times by the Byzantines, Normans, Swabians, Angevin, Aragonese, the Viceroy of Spain, the Austrians and the Bourbons. The 1980 Irpinia earthquake represented a turning point for the town and province because afterwards money flowed in for investment in the infrastructure. There are now many businesses in the area, such as FMA, who produce Fiat engines for car manufacturers. But the production of tobacco, wine and hazelnuts is still important to the local economy. Avellino has a cathedral, dedicated to Santa Maria Assunta, that was built in the 12th century with a neoclassical facade added in 1891.

Also on this day:

1553: The birth of botanist Prospero Alpini

1921: The birth of singer and actor Fred Buscaglione

1941: The birth of actor Franco Nero

1955: The birth of composer Ludovico Einaudi


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6 November 2024

Antonio Landieri - Camorra victim

Family fought for 12 years to establish son’s innocence

Antonio Landieri's disability meant he was unable to escape as Camorra gunmen opened fire
Antonio Landieri's disability meant he was unable
to escape as Camorra gunmen opened fire
A 12-year-fight to clear the name of an innocent victim of a Camorra clan war began on this day in 2004 when 25-year-old Antonio Landieri, a disabled resident of the notorious Vele di Scampia housing complex in Naples, was shot dead outside a recreation club where he had been playing table football with some friends.

Antonio and his friends were leaving the club, at the side of a square known to be frequented by drug dealers, when a car pulled up a short distance away from them in Via Labriola. A group of armed men emerged from the car and began shooting at them.

His friends instinctively ran away but Antonio, who could walk but only with severely restricted mobility - the consequence of complications at birth that left him partially paralysed - could not keep up and was hit several times in the back. He died in the arms of his mother, who had heard the shots being fired and ran down 11 flights of stairs from the family’s apartment in the run-down complex, fearful for her son’s safety.

The shooting made headlines in the local papers, who reported it as the latest event in a rapidly evolving war between rival Camorra gangs that would leave 70 dead in six months.  The dead man, they said, was associated with the Di Lauro clan which controlled much of Scampia; the attackers were from the Amato-Pagano clan from neighbouring Secondigliano.

Antonio Lampieri’s family insisted this was not the case but few people other than relatives and close friends believed them. The police refused to allow Antonio a public funeral on the grounds that it could lead to more criminality. 

The Vele di Scampia apartment blocks acquired their name because their shape resembled sails
The Vele di Scampia apartment blocks acquired
their name because their shape resembled sails
As far as the authorities, the press and most of the city’s population were concerned, Antonio had been an international drug dealer who often travelled between Italy and Colombia. 

His family’s bid to convince people otherwise was not helped by the reputation of the Vele, also known as the Sette Palazzi - the Seven Palaces.

A large urban housing project built between 1962 and 1975, the Vele di Scampia consisted of seven massive apartment blocks, constructed to house between 40,000 to 70,000 people. The blocks were dubbed vele (sails) for their triangular shape.

The complex was inspired by modernist housing developments pioneered by French-Swiss architect Charles-Édouard Jeanneret, known as Le Corbusier.  

The architect in charge, Francesco Di Salvo, was a specialist in low-cost housing and the Vele di Scampia buildings were designed to provide only subsistence-level dwellings. Although they were deliberately minimal, they were to have many shared exterior spaces. Di Salvo believed he could construct apartment blocks that recreated the spirit of the alleys and courtyards of historic Naples, crowded but congenial.

But costs soon exceeded the city’s budget for the project, with funds frequently stolen, and the green spaces, schools, common areas and playgrounds that were meant to become the pulsating heart of a thriving community never materialised. 

The promised public transport links with central Naples were never built and the Sette Palazzi turned into a hotspot for organised crime. Prostitution and drug-dealing took place openly. The police only occasionally took any notice and Scampia, which like Secondigliano had been a rural village before Naples began to expand, became a symbol for urban decline.

Naples mayor Luigi De Magistris commended the Landieri family
Naples mayor Luigi De Magistris
commended the Landieri family
Three of the seven blocks were demolished in 1997, 2000 and 2003. Yet 40,000 residents, some of whom had been displaced by the earthquake that hit the Naples area in 1980, remained squeezed into the four remaining blocks. Many outsiders believed that no one would choose to stay in the Vele unless they were involved in crime.

Antonio’s parents, Enzo and Raffaella, never gave up their fight to achieve justice for their son, despite being offered money by the family of one of the gunmen as compensation in return for giving up their quest for the truth.

They were helped in their cause by numerous groups and associations set up to campaign on their behalf, by a tenacious anti-mafia prosecutor, Maurizio De Marco, and ultimately by evidence given by eight different Camorra pentiti - informants who had struck deals with prosecutors to reduce their own sentences.

The process took 12 years but it was finally established that the intended victims were the Meola brothers, Vittorio and Salvatore, who were Di Lauro affiliates.  Antonio Landieri had been mistaken for a Meola associate known to have difficulty walking.  

In 2017, Landieri’s parents at last learned that their son was to be given official state recognition as an innocent victim of the Camorra. The mayor of Naples, Luigi De Magistris, commended the family for “never giving up in the search for truth and in the pursuit of justice".

The five individuals named as the perpetrators of the killing were sentenced to life imprisonment. Others involved had died before the case came to trial.

Landieri has been honoured in a number of ways in Scampia, with a tree planted in his name near Piazza Giovanni Paolo II, an annual poetry competition held for the Antonio Landieri prize and the local football stadium renamed Stadio Antonio Landieri.

A book dedicated to him - entitled Al di là della neve, storie di Scampia (Beyond the Snow, Stories of Scampia) - written by his cousin, Rosario Esposito La Rossa, won the 2008 Siani Prize.

Roberto Saviano's book put Scampia in the spotlight
Roberto Saviano's book put
Scampia in the spotlight
Travel tip: 

Though hardly a tourist attraction in the conventional sense, Scampia attracts some visitors, particularly because of the notoriety of the Vele. The area was immortalised by the author and investigative journalist Roberto Saviano in his book, Gomorrah, which documented Saviano's infiltration and investigation of a number areas of business and daily life controlled or affected by the Camorra.  Scenes from both the film and TV series based on the book were filmed in the neighbourhood, some inside the actual Vele complex. It was seen in a better light, however, when US actor Stanley Tucci’s culinary series, Searching for Italy, ventured into the area to feature a bistrot run by local volunteers. The intention to demolish the complex’s remaining blocks was announced in 2016 and residents began moving out in 2019 but it was later announced that one block was to be preserved and repurposed as offices. 



The Piazza del Plebiscito is the largest public square in the city of Naples
The Piazza del Plebiscito is the largest
public square in the city of Naples
Travel tip:

Scampia, which is just a 10-minute drive from Naples’s Capodichino international airport, is less than 10km (six miles) from the centre of the city, which many tourists do visit. They are drawn by such attractions as Teatro di San Carlo, the oldest continuously active venue for public opera in the world; the large open space of the Piazza del Plebiscito, which adjoins the Palazzo Reale; the Capodimonte Royal Palace and Museum, which houses works by Caravaggio, Raphael and Botticelli; the Santa Chiara religious complex; the elegant, glass-domed Galleria Umberto I, a 19th century shopping arcade; and the 12th century Castel dell'Ovo, located on a promontory and offering beautiful views of the harbour and Mount Vesuvius, the volcano - officially still active, although dormant since 1944 - that overlooks the city.

Also on this day:

1835: The birth of criminologist Cesare Lombroso

1891: The birth of entrepreneur Giovanni Buitoni

2007: The death of author and journalist Enzo Biagi

Vino Novello goes on sale


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1 September 2024

Michele Giuttari – crime writer and police officer

Cop-turned-novelist with inside knowledge of police investigations

Michele Giuttari's novels draw on his experience as a high-ranking Italian police officer
Michele Giuttari's novels draw on his experience
as a high-ranking Italian police officer
Michele Giuttari, who headed the police in Florence and used his experience working on investigations into Mafia activities and dangerous criminals to become a successful crime writer, was born on this day in 1950 in Novara di Sicilia, a village in the province of Messina in Sicily.

After studying for a degree in Jurisprudence at the University of Messina, Giuttari qualified as a lawyer. He joined the Polizia di Stato as a commissario in 1978 and later rose through the ranks to take charge of the Florentine police between 1995 and 2003.

Giuttari first served in Calabria, where he held positions in the Squadra Mobile of Reggio Calabria and Cosenza. He then joined the Anti-Mafia investigation department and served first in Naples and then in Florence, where he became head of the Judicial Investigation section, and succeeded in jailing several key Mafia figures.

During his time in command of the Squadra Mobile in Florence, Giuttari was responsible for reopening the Monster of Florence case and proving that the so-called monster was not simply a lone serial killer but was, in fact, a group of killers.

After retiring from serving in the Polizia di Stato, Giuttari started crime writing and has now written a series of novels featuring his character, Commissario Michele Ferrara, the latest, entitled Sangue sul Chianti (Blood on Chianti), having been published in 2021.

Seven novels in the Ferrara series have been published in English, the first of which - entitled A Florentine Death - will fascinate readers who are interested in learning about the methods or seeing into the minds of the Italian police. The book had been published in Italy under the title Scarabeo.

Michele Giuttari has made many appearances on television in Italy to talk about his life and work
Michele Giuttari has made many appearances on
television in Italy to talk about his life and work
The hero, Commissario Ferrara - the equivalent of Chief Superintendent in the English police - is the head of the Squadra Mobile in Florence, about which Giuttari can write with authority. He can describe what really happens in  murder investigations, interviewing suspects, and organising armed police operations.

As well as providing an authentic account of police procedure in a multiple murder investigation, Giuttari delivers a cleverly plotted mystery that becomes increasingly more gripping as it reaches its dramatic conclusion.

A Death in Tuscany, the second Commissario Ferrara novel published in English, is also fascinating because it offers even more glimpses behind the scenes of an Italian police station and gives the readers the feeling that they are on the inside of a major police investigation.

In this novel, the reader finds out more about the man behind the job title and about his earlier life in Sicily.

Ferrara finds he is up against the Mafia as well as ruthless drugs bosses, and even his own Commissioner, who is enraged both by his unorthodox behaviour during the investigation and because he has fallen foul of the Carabinieri, pressures Giuttari himself has obviously experienced at times during his career.

The Death of a Mafia Don is available in English
The Death of a Mafia Don
is available in English  
The next in the series - The Death of a Mafia Don - starts with a bomb exploding near Commissario Ferrara’s car in the centre of Florence, leaving the head of the Squadra Mobile injured. There is an urgent need to find out who was responsible to prevent further atrocities, but with Ferrara  unconscious and in hospital, his loyal colleagues are forced to start the investigation without him.

This is a fast moving novel about terrorism and Mafia activity in Italy seen from the perspective of the security forces. It shows the way the police and the Carabinieri often work together and there is a realistic portrait of Florence as the backdrop for the action.

Former policeman Giuttari has now achieved international success with his crime novels, which have been published in more than 100 countries, and he has won several literary awards, including the Fenice Europa for La Loggia degli Innocenti and the Camaiore Letteratura Gialla for Il Basilisco.

In a film made about the Monster of Florence murders, the character of Giuttari was played by the actor Giorgio Colangeli.

A typical street in historic Novara di Sicilia
A typical street in historic
Novara di Sicilia
Travel tip:

Situated about 70km (43 miles) southwest of Messina in the northeastern corner of Sicily, Michele Guittari’s beautiful home village of Novara di Sicilia is rich in history and traditions. Built on a hillside at the point where the Nebrodi mountains meet the Peloritani range, it was founded and inhabited by Greeks, then by Romans and Arabs and later conquered by the Normans. The remains of a Norman castle can be found near the Chiesa di San Giorgio. In the village’s historic centre, the Duomo di Santa Maria Assunta, built in the 16th century, has a sandstone façade typical of the area, with a wide staircase leading to an essentially Renaissance interior. Just 5km (3.5 miles) from the centre of the village is the Abbazia di Santa Maria, which dates back to the 12th century and is said to be the best example of a Cistercian building in Sicily. 

The Cattedrale di Santa Maria Assunta - Cosenza's duomo - lies at the heart of the mediaeval city
The Cattedrale di Santa Maria Assunta - Cosenza's
duomo - lies at the heart of the mediaeval city
Travel tip:

Calabria is a part of Italy which did not traditionally attract large numbers of overseas tourists but is becoming more popular thanks to beautiful coastal towns and villages such as Tropea, San Nicola Arcella and Pizzo, while the inland city of Cosenza - where Michele Giuttari once worked - has been described as epitomising the “unkempt charm of southern Italy” with a history that can be traced back to the third century, when there was a settlement called Consentia, the capital of the Brutti tribe. Over subsequent years, the area was captured by the Visigoths, the Lombards, the Saracens, the Normans and the Spanish before the Risorgimento and unification saw it become part of the new Italy.  At the heart of the mediaeval old city, with its network of steep, narrow streets, is a cathedral originally built in the 11th century and modified many times subsequently.  The old town also boasts the 13th century Castello Svevo, built on the site of a Saracen fortification, which hosted the wedding of Louis III of Naples and Margaret of Savoy,  but which the Bourbons used as a prison.

Also on this day:

1576: The birth of Cardinal and art collector Scipione Borghese

1878: The birth of conductor Tullio Serafin

1886: The birth of vaudeville star Guido Deiro 

1922: The birth of actor Vittorio Gassman


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27 July 2024

Mauro Giuliani – virtuoso guitarist

Maestro who perfected his technique so that his instrument seemed to sing

Mauri Giuliani was a 19th century
pioneer of guitar music
Leading 19th century guitarist and composer Mauro Giuliani was born on this day in 1781 in Bisceglie, a small town on the Adriatic coast near Bari in Puglia.

Growing up to become an accomplished cellist, singer and composer, Giuliani toured Europe playing in concerts and he became a musical celebrity while he was living in Vienna. He was  invited to play in chamber concerts in the botanical gardens of Schönbrunn Palace - the main summer residence of the Habsburg rulers - with other top musicians.

Giuliani moved to live in Barletta, also on the Adriatic coast when he was very young, where he learnt to play the cello, an instrument he never completely abandoned. But he began to devote himself to learning the six-string guitar, becoming a skilled performer on it very quickly.

Although he married Maria Guiseppe del Monaco and they had a son while he was living in Barletta, Giuliani moved abroad and settled in Vienna without his family, where he learnt the classical instrumental style and began to publish his own compositions. He went on to play in concerts all over Europe, defining a new role for the guitar in music.

He got to know Rossini and Beethoven and in 1814 he was appointed guitar virtuoso di camera to Empress Marie Louise, Napoleon’s second wife. In 1815, Giuliani appeared alongside a famous violinist and cellist in a series of concerts in the botanical gardens of Schönbrunn Palace, which were named the Dukaten Concerte, reflecting the price of the tickets, which was one ducat. He was also the official concert artist for the celebrations of the congress of Vienna in the same year.

The Schönbrunn Palace, summer residence of the Habsburgs in Vienna, where Giuliani performed
The Schönbrunn Palace, summer residence of the
Habsburgs in Vienna, where Giuliani performed
Giuliani played the cello in the orchestra that gave the first performance of Beethoven’s Seventh Symphony. He had many of his compositions published in Vienna, which all showed a marked Italian influence, in particular, that of the music of Rossini. Giuliani also developed a teaching career while he was in the city. 

During his time in Vienna, he had a relationship with Anna Wiesenberger, with whom he had four daughters. After he left Vienna in 1819, he went on a concert tour of Bohemia and Bavaria before returning to Italy. He spent time in Venice and Trieste but finally settled in Rome.

In 1822, he brought one of his daughters, Emilia, over from Vienna to live with him, and she was educated in a nunnery in Rome. 

Giuliani travelled to Naples regularly to be with his father, who by then was seriously ill. In Naples there was a good reception for his artistry on the guitar and he was able to publish some of his compositions with Neapolitan publishers.

Giuliani's solo pieces are still widely performed today
Giuliani's solo pieces are
still widely performed today
In 1826, he performed in Portici in Naples before Francesco I and the Bourbon court. He frequently appeared on stage playing duets with his daughter, Emilia, who had also become a skilled performer on the guitar.  

Guliani died in Naples in 1829. According to contemporary accounts, people who had heard Giuliani play the guitar were said to have found his expression and tone astonishing, and felt that he made the instrument seem to sing. Some said the sound he produced called to mind the lute players that had gone before.

Giuliani produced 150 compositions for the guitar and he also composed music for the guitar with an orchestra, and for guitar duets with a violin, or flute.

His concertos and solo pieces are still widely performed by professional guitarists today. Although, he did not publish a Method, the studies and exercises he left behind are still used in the training for a guitarist.

The bust of Giuliani in central Bisceglie
The bust of Giuliani
in central Bisceglie

Travel tip: 

Bisceglie, where Giuliani was born, is in the province of Barletta-Andria-Trani in Puglia, in southern Italy. The city looks out over the Adriatic and lies between Trani and Molfetta. A centre for agriculture and textiles, it dates back to prehistoric times and there are Bronze Age remains to be seen.  Its name is thought likely to be a derivation from the Latin word vigilae, meaning watchtowers. It was awarded Blue Flag beach certification in 2001 for high environmental and quality standards. An historic old city and a pleasant harbour area have made it a destination for tourists. There is a bronze bust of Mauro Giuliani, in Piazza Vittorio Emanuele II. There is also a small museum celebrating his life and achievements in Via Cardinale Dell'Olio.


The Colossus of Barletta
The Colossus
of Barletta
Travel tip:

Barletta, where Giuliani grew up and learnt to play the cello, is a city with around 95,000 inhabitants on the Adriatic coast to the north of Trani. The area includes part of the battlefield of Cannae, an important archaeological site famous for the battle in 216 BC between the Romans and the Carthaginians, won by Hannibal. Barletta is home to the Colossus of Barletta, a bronze statue representing a Roman Emperor - thought to be Theodosius II - which stands at about 4m (13 feet) tall and is the largest surviving statue from the late Roman Empire.  According to folklore, the statue - known as Eraclio - once saved the city from a Saracen attack by convincing the Saracens that Barletta’s inhabitants were giants.  Barletta was recognised as Città d’Arte of Puglia in 2005 because of its beautiful architecture. 



Also on this day:

1835: The birth of Nobel Prize-winning poet Giosuè Carducci

1915: The birth of tenor Mario Del Monaco

1922: The birth of actor and director Adolfo Celi

1939: The birth of singer Peppino di Capri


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31 March 2024

Francesco Durante – composer and teacher

Musician devoted his life to passing on his composing skills to others

Francesco Durante numbered many famous pupils when he taught in Naples
Francesco Durante numbered many famous
pupils when he taught in Naples
An esteemed composer of religious and instrumental music, Francesco Durante was born on this day in 1684 at Frattamaggiore near Naples.

Durante was a highly regarded teacher at the Sant'Onofrio Conservatorio and the Santa Maria di Loreto Conservatorio and was also Chapelmaster at the Conservatorio dei Poveri di Gesú Cristo in Naples.

He had some famous pupils, among whom were Niccoló Jommelli, Niccoló Piccinni and Giovanni Battista Pergolesi, who became leading composers of the Neapolitan School of 18th century opera.

Durante studied music in Rome and at Naples, where he was a pupil at San Onofrio and is believed to have studied under Alessandro Scarlatti. He began his own teaching career at the Sant'Onofrio Conservatorio in 1710.

Between 1728 and 1742 he also taught at Santa Maria Loreto and the Conservatorio dei Poveri di Gesú Cristo.  He succeeded Leonardo Leo as principal teacher at Sant'Onofrio Conservatorio in 1745.

There was always rivalry between Leo’s students and his own pupils, who at various times included the composers Giovanni Paisiello, Tommaso Traetta and Leonardo Vinci.

Durante’s own compositions included motets, masses, requiems and oratorios. A pastoral mass for four voices and a setting of the Lamentations of Jeremiah are considered among his best works. He also composed for the harpsichord and for stringed instruments.

A collection of his works was presented to the Bibliothèque National in Paris by a Neapolitan collector of art and music and the Imperial library in Vienna also houses a collection of his manuscripts. He seems to have composed mainly sacred works and is considered by experts to have been one of the best composers of church music of his period.

Durante, who was married three times, died in Naples in 1755, aged 71.

The Piazza Umberto I in Frattamaggiore, with the campanile of the Basilica of San Sossio
The Piazza Umberto I in Frattamaggiore, with the
campanile of the Basilica of San Sossio 
Travel tip:

Frattamaggiore, where Durante was born, is a comune of Naples, about 15km (9 miles) north of the city, and 15 km southwest of Caserta. Known as Fratta to the locals, Frattamaggiore was named a Benedictine city in 1997 and was awarded the title of City of Art in 2008. It is thought to date back to before Roman times, but the first recorded mention of Frattamaggiore was in 921 AD. The patron saint of Frattamaggiore is Saint Sossius, or Sosius. His remains were first preserved at Miseno, but after the town was destroyed by the Saracens his followers moved to live in Frattamaggiore. The saint’s relics were recovered by Benedictines and preserved in a convent in Naples, but after the convent was suppressed during Napoleonic times, his relics were transferred to Frattamaggiore where they are preserved in a basilica dedicated to him.

The entrance to the Sant'Onofrio Conservatory at Porta Capuana
The entrance to the Sant'Onofrio
Conservatory at Porta Capuana
Travel tip:

The Conservatorio di Sant'Onofrio at Porta Capuana, where Durante taught at the beginning and end of his career, was one of the four original Naples music conservatories. Founded in 1588, it was developed first as an orphanage. Almost one fifth of the students at the Conservatorio di Sant'onofrio were castrati. Its popularity declined during the Napoleonic period, and only 30 students remained when the conservatory merged with that of Santa Maria di Loreto in 1797. Porta Capuana is now a free-standing gateway that was once part of the Aragonese walls of the city and is situated between the city’s main railway station and the Duomo. The Conservatorio di Sant'onofrio, which was in time absorbed into the Naples Conservatory, used to be close to the Castel Capuano, which was originally a 12th century fortress but has been modified several times. Until recently, the castle was home to the city’s Hall of Justice, also known as the Vicaria, which housed legal offices and a prison.



More reading:

The opera buffa genius of Giovanni Battista Pergolesi

Why Domenico Cimarosa's Il Matrimonio Segreto is seen as one of the greatest comic operas

First night at Teatro di San Carlo

Also on this day: 

1425: The birth of Bianca Maria Visconti, Duchess of Milan

1675: The birth of Pope Benedict XIV

1941: The birth of cartoonist Franco Bonvicini

1958: The birth of crime writer Maurizio De Giovanni

1996: The death of car designer Dante Giacosa

(Picture credits: conservatory gate by Baku; via Wikimedia Commons)


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